Recent content by Stevie100

Hi My upright frost-free freezer has stopped working. I cant feel or hear the compressor running, but it is hot to the touch - which confuses me and makes me wonder if they can jam? I'm handy at fixing anything, so is there anything obvious I can check before I shell out £400 on a new one...

Is there no other possible cause? Is getting it regassed not a sensible option? Looks like it would cost ~£400 for another! It needs to be these dimensions... http://www.appliancecity.co.uk/Product/Whirlpool/Freestanding+Cooling/WV1600W/

Hi, The compressor is running permanently yet there is absolutely no cold being 'produced' and the heat exchanger on the back is not even vaguely warm. Has it just lost all its gas or might there be another explanation that I can investigate? Ta for any help Steve

I moved in 17 years ago, then I moved out 5 years ago and a tennant is now in the house. But this isn't important! How long is the cleaner supposed to stay in for. And do I just chuck it in the header tank?

Oh! I moved in 17 years ago, and it was already broken then! (I like to ignore minor problems!). The house is ~22 years old. But now the tennant is complaining that he shouldnt have to turn all the radiators off individually in summer to stop them coming on when the water goes on... he has a...

Not sure (its at a house elsewhere), but I will check that if I choose the the quick option. Although roguetrader has maybe made me feel guilty enough to drain it. But then I'll have to be back asking about refilling and getting airlocks out! It is at least 20 years that I know since it...

Hello. I'm a central heating beginner (but a generally competent DIY-er). I need to replace this which doesn't work but I cant find the exact replacement in Screwfix. This item http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30424/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Controls/Danfoss-HS3-3-Port-Motorised-Valve looks...

Hi It turned out to be the air pressure switch. I changed that and it was fixed. Well, almost fixed! - it then had a problem with one of the relays on the circuit board which would go mental occasionally when trying to light the burners. It would be clicking for up to 2 minutes before it...

Are you talking here about the fan or the Air Pressure Switch? The fan resistance was exactly 50 Ohms as you predicted. I didn't get as far as connecting 240v to it as I then found the air pressure switch problem. Again, do you mean the fan or the APS?

OK. progress... I removed the thermister (thermostat?) molex and nothing happened. So, following p37 on here: http://www.idealboilers.com/docs/html/classic_se_ff_manual.html that took me to: the fuse?: It's OK then: Is there a live supply on the violet lead to pressure switch? Yes...

Ah, great. I wondered if the relay on the 'new' PCB was blackened beforehand - I didn't check. So that may be a red herring? I'll try the thermistor test tonight when I get home. (Of course I'm trying to save money! I don't pay people to do jobs I can do myself (it remains to be seen...

So what do you think I should do? 1) I can measure Ohms of the fan at the board end (should be around 50) 2) I'm happy(ish!) to attach 240v to the fan molex and see what happens Should I just replace the fan? Is this definitely the problem? I can fix the fan relay on the board (each...

The left relay (apparently the fan relay) is charred. I'm assuming it's that which has failed How do I measure the resistance and inductance of the fan? I have a standard digital multimeter which does resistance. But how do I measure inductance? No I haven't independently powered the fan...