Recent content by thetman

I found that a 1.5mm cable just wouldn't come out of those LAP terminals, probably best just to cut it and re-bare the wires anyway, wiring it properly

I take it its just the connector that is different. i.e. you need to change from a type 1 to a type 2. Just get an electrician to change the charger for a type 2, you shouldn't need to involve the DNO.

It doesn't 'need' the vent to function like the old boiler might have. The boiler manual will tell you a compartment (i.e cupboard) needs ventilation for cooling of the boiler.

Thats awful, the 110 needs extended up with at least an AAV (durgo Valve) and a proper boss connection for the condensate. There really should be a tundish on the PRV discharge as well

Without know what was there before it's a guess but I would say, the 2 15mm together will be the heating flow and return, the 22mm will be the hot water flow and the 15mm the mains water supply. If they have gone to the bother of capping it it's likely still full and under pressure. Out of...

You need to very carefully consider the type of heating distribution you have from the existing oil boiler. The GSHP is not comfortable generating the same flow temperatures as the oil boiler and it needs a very controlled return temperature. Unless you can live with a low temperature...

If the capped one is one of the two 15mm that are together I would suggest its the return to the heating system from what was the connections to the cylinder. Was likely tee'd into the heating return rather than going back to the boiler. Like others have said, needs tracing out to be sure.

Is it a mains feed to a shower and the water is coming back via the cylinder and the mixing valve ?

have a look in the light switch and see if there are any spare wires that have been linked out in the past that would once have controlled that socket

Why not during the day put all the zones on a set back and get an electric heater to top up your study, will be far cheaper in the long run and a lot less messing around

This would be your best bet, pick the closest size and arrangement to the existing. Layout 1 (stelrad.com)

Having just bought an electric car, there may be a reason for the free period I discovered. Some of the charge points pre-authorise a charge on your card (approx £30) and sometimes if the charge doesnt start first time you can end up with multiple pre-authorised amounts if you try a few times...

It's likely to be even less than that as most of the Kia type electrics only have 7.5kw on board chargers so if charging it with AC the most it will draw is 7.5kw. To get any more needs the rapid DC charger so it's peanuts in the grand scheme of things.

Its great how on the eBay sales page, all the photos have the plug top edited out of the image. Really wish trading standards had more power over these sellers.

Do you need to plug in the plug to get hot water to your taps ? How do you pay the bill for this, normally the unit would have a meter incorporated on the landlords heating pipes, this will need power. Is there an actual model number on the unit ?