Recent content by tomm12

All the verge tiles need lifting and the mortar cleaning out, & then decide if you want wet(mortar) verge or a dry plastic verge. If the barge board or battens are rotted then its

Stay away from the edge of the brick and start with small TC bit increasing bit size to plug size.

No, it wont cure damp. In some circumstances it might make things worse. Without seeing the top of the stack cant say much about it. The back gutter looks to be a poor installation and is possibly leaking.

Can you show a photo of the outside of the door frame & the party wall division between your door & the neighbours front door? Where on the party wall Is the second photo showing? Is it an interior hall or a porch? Is that solid plaster or plasterboard?

If the liner goes up the flue there's probably no need to alter anything. If you end up piercing the side of the chimney breast then no need to drill, just knock a few side bricks out.

Three floors of flue liner are nothing to a modern extractor. Each fireplace has its own flue to the chimney stack on the roof. Sometimes there's three flues in a single chimney breast but they are all separate. Dropping a liner down the flue from the stack and connecting it below to the...

Why not try scraping some of the stones away at the corner and then lifting the lead to have a look at the roof felt(?). It looks like there's maybe felt going up the parapet a little behind the lead cover flashing? Whatever it is there's a split showing. If its loose pull it back and have a...

Assuming you have a pitched dormer roof then yes you can do that. Cut out a neat square of plasterboard Afterwards seal the opening vapour barrier, and replace the square of plasterboard, taped & screwed up to prevent warm air from below getting into the mini loft.

nada75 why dont you post a pic of the side of the chimney and mark where you will have to core drill through? Why must the hole be exactly where you are saying? And why cant you use a flue liner to take the extraction fumes up the flue? How many floors does the house have?

Has the step flashing been turned into the mortar bed chases? As above, the corner needs a better bit of work. The back gutter looks wild. Can you get pics of the back gutter?

You've got a wide span at the kitchen to the lean-to knock through and therefore a large lintel. If the lintel was badly installed it could have caused structural difficulties for the upper floor and the upper floor openings? Any wall cracks upstairs? What are you going to do with the kitchen...

When the extension roof was constructed the valley we can see was not constructed at all, it was left open without valley boards etc. No valley boards and the rest of the valley goes haywire. They must have been relying on the GRP valley to do the work of a properly built valley with boarding...

I'd suspect all the rendering has failed. Maybe the gable pike was rendered first. Starting from & going up from a stop bead(?) in line with the eaves. Then later the lower rendering was brought up to the stop bead? Moisture could be creeping behind the render at the stop bead, cold joins are...

You should hack off back to brick all damp suspect plasters and board. But your finished surface has been pulled out and might need a plasterer to bring it all together. Remove any timber thats been built-into the walls. Your extension looks like its just been banged up against the house wall...

The chimney stack lacking a lead tray, if it is missing, is not the problem. I dont know if anyone has mentioned but if you cant get on the roof. with the roofers then ask for pics of when the lead and tiles are lifted