Recent content by TommyH

I have a 1900s brick terrace, painted peddle dash (before me), with a single skin section under the front bay window. It's cracked, the airbricks need moving as they are below pavement level, the bricks are all spalled, it's only about 5ft wide, thinking of propping up the PVC window and...

Hi I've bought a Smiths HL1000 fan assisted radiator to fit into the kitchen. The combi boiler is also in the kitchen and the 22mm flow and return pipes are right there to tee off. The radiator has 15mm stub pipes in & out. It's like a plinth heater but goes up high on the wall. There's two...

We tried pulling some of the cables through the conduit today and it wasn't a success - most of these are 12 2.5mm cables through 20mm conduit for at least 10m and a couple of right angles, so they weren't going anywhere at all unfortunately. We are going to order some 2.5mm DIN terminals...

Putting a box with a DIN rail on the outside might not be a bad idea actually if we can't pull back.

Yes, we have two qualified electricians on site. It's not to discard something that adds workload, but I would be interested in a realistic appraisal of the avoidance of risk - re-wiring 16 sockets at height of around 25 feet induces an amount of risk, how much risk do crimps in the trunking...

Pulling them back will also induce a large workload with respect to gaining access the the current 16 sockets, most of which are not easily accessible and at height. It depends how neat and acceptable crimping within trunking is. I am waiting on these bushes arriving first so I can mount the...

I will try with the first one before we cut but I honestly don't think there's much chance of it working, most of the conduits run for at least 10m and through at least two right angles. I will try and let you know though.

Not really an issue, the wire will be slack when I solder it, and there's plenty of room to work. We'll see which we do then. I think crimping might end up a bit neater, so I'll probably crimp & shrink.

For my purposes though, is there anything wrong with a soldered and heatshrunk joint? I think this is what we will most likely go for, either that or standard butt crimps with heatshrink over the entire joint. Of those two is there any reason to lean towards one solution?

Yes - I think the adhesive refers to the inside of the heat shrink, often heatshrink is lined with hot melt adhesive as well to make it more effective.

Nice suggestion, thankyou - I will look into them. I am just more familiar with soldering myself if I am helping the electrician - my background is electronics so I more familiar with an iron than a crimp tool.

We're certainly not adverse to solder & heat shrink if it makes a better connection. In fact I probably prefer it to crimping.

Yes, that should work - there's enough trunking before they fork off into the conduit to trace them back and re-wire them into the new sockets, and then extend the original wires to meet the new sockets - is a single crimp within the trunking going to be safe, do you think?

Okay, if we can't pull back I think we will have to get someone in.

If we were to install additional blank boxes on the outside of the trunking, would terminal block be an acceptable way to split within these?