Recent content by User1234567890

Thanks. Yep, a straight flight with block walls on both sides all the way up. I pulled the board off the underside of the stairs, and I could see that the stringers were not supported by the wall, it was just old crumbly plaster between the stringer and wall, and it looked like the underside of...

50s build house, has an under stairs cupboard, but it has a door at the rear for access, rather than the side. I believe that these were used as a larder originally, and the wall incorporates a large reinforced concrete slab, the full width of the cupboard, which I removed yesterday. I want to...

That was my first thought, but it would leave a large area round it, maybe 60mm or more on all sides in need of filling with something, so it seems easier to find a board that fits over it all. Going to go and see what I can find today, cheers.

Thanks mate, I'll have a look.

I need to find some kind of board that is 4mm or less in thickness, that is ok to skim/fill over. Is there any such thing? It's to go over a wooden infill panel above an old door frame, and the frame is not plumb, true, square etc. The wall to the left of the doorway is freshly plasterboarded...

I don't want to use chlorine/bleach based, as I mentioned in my post, because of too many structural nails nearby, and I don't want to risk damaging the membrane. I have searched, but I am asking if anyone has used any non-chlorine based, mould removing products in particular, in this situation...

Had a re-roof about 5 years ago, and the roofer never fitted any ventilation at all, so within a few months, it was soaking wet with condensation and the mould set in. I have since installed plenty of ventilation, which works well, but the mould still remains. I have emptied the loft, for...

Thanks, that looks like it would do the trick, but what would I use to keep it shut, or do these type of hinges have a magnetic catch or something to stop the weight of the door from pulling open?

They might do, if they open far enough. Thanks, I'll have a look.

I'm trying to make the most of some space over my stairs, and have made some big shelves, and they are having a big mdf door on them, that opens as normal, and the shelves will have a notch out of the front of them to house a smallish loft ladder for access. But underneath that, there is a...

I need to put a bullnose edge on a 20mm x 1.5m thick piece of oak. I have a 1/4" shank trim router. Would a 3/8"/9.5mm radius round over bit, done in 2 passes, one for each edge, along the length, be the right way to go, or is it better to get a proper bullnose bit and do it in one pass? If so...

Morning! I'm fitting an oak newel post, and I think I know what I'm going to do, but I wanted to run it past the knowledgeable people here before I do it. I've attached a photo of the hole that the post is going in. It is the post at the top of the stairs, that forms a balustrade on the...

Not unless an electrical safe zone is stuffed between the upvc front door frame and the top layer of plaster? This is a 70+ year old house and the wiring is probably late 80s, so there are no zones that fit with today's regs, as far as I'm aware? Plug sockets are low to the floor, wiring is all...

At the moment, there's a small cinderblock wall of about 900mm high x 1200mm long, that is the original balustrade in a 1950s build house. I want to remove the wall, and install an oak and glass handrail/balustrade, and it is just 1 newel post attached to stringer/joist, and a half post at the...

Finally getting round to boarding the walls my stairway this weekend. Already done the ceiling and the easier walls, to get into the swing of it, but it occurred to me that, despite me being quite tall, even if I could lift the board at full stretch above my head, it's still not enough, and as...