Recent content by User1234567890

Thanks, that looks like it would do the trick, but what would I use to keep it shut, or do these type of hinges have a magnetic catch or something to stop the weight of the door from pulling open?

They might do, if they open far enough. Thanks, I'll have a look.

I'm trying to make the most of some space over my stairs, and have made some big shelves, and they are having a big mdf door on them, that opens as normal, and the shelves will have a notch out of the front of them to house a smallish loft ladder for access. But underneath that, there is a...

I need to put a bullnose edge on a 20mm x 1.5m thick piece of oak. I have a 1/4" shank trim router. Would a 3/8"/9.5mm radius round over bit, done in 2 passes, one for each edge, along the length, be the right way to go, or is it better to get a proper bullnose bit and do it in one pass? If so...

Morning! I'm fitting an oak newel post, and I think I know what I'm going to do, but I wanted to run it past the knowledgeable people here before I do it. I've attached a photo of the hole that the post is going in. It is the post at the top of the stairs, that forms a balustrade on the...

Not unless an electrical safe zone is stuffed between the upvc front door frame and the top layer of plaster? This is a 70+ year old house and the wiring is probably late 80s, so there are no zones that fit with today's regs, as far as I'm aware? Plug sockets are low to the floor, wiring is all...

At the moment, there's a small cinderblock wall of about 900mm high x 1200mm long, that is the original balustrade in a 1950s build house. I want to remove the wall, and install an oak and glass handrail/balustrade, and it is just 1 newel post attached to stringer/joist, and a half post at the...

Finally getting round to boarding the walls my stairway this weekend. Already done the ceiling and the easier walls, to get into the swing of it, but it occurred to me that, despite me being quite tall, even if I could lift the board at full stretch above my head, it's still not enough, and as...

Thanks, I thought I'd replied to this, sorry. I bought some SBR and that has done the trick, brilliant stuff. The boards are going to be fixed in place with a mix of battens and adhesive. I may go for the foam as it's a real pain mixing up a big bucket of the plasterboard adhesive on this...

I have banged off back to the brick, and am dot and dabbing 12.5mm boards on. I PVAd the wall with a 5 to 1 mix and then again with a slightly stronger mix, but the walls are still super absorbent and it is sucking the moisture from the adhesive and the boards are not sticking properly. As...

Thanks mate. I'm liking the laser level idea, I do have one, but the loft hatch frame was blocking the beam from a lot of the ceiling, so your idea with the mark on a piece of wood should fix that. I had already filled between the rafters with PIR as all the insulation that fell out was...

So, I've bashed all the ceiling plaster and old boards off, back to the joists, on my landing and as always, there's something holding me up. There are 4 visible joists, all at different heights. There's a 40mm difference between the highest and lowest spots, along one wall alone. The loft...

Thanks mate, I did it the way you suggested in the hallway on a smaller bit of wall and it worked well, but took me a long time to get the packers right. Used a laser level instead of plumb line, but much quicker to get the boards on after that though. (y) I've got a load of plasterboard...

I'm plasterboarding the stairs, and as always in this 1950s build, I banged all the old plaster off back to the brick, and the wall are massively out in all directions, but notably, there's a bulge in the middle, almost all the way up. I was going to use plasterboard adhesive, but to use 12.5mm...

Thanks for the suggestions. Didn't have any planks, so cobbled together a sideways step thing out of odds and ends, and screwed it to the stairs. Pretty solid and did the trick, anyway.