Recent content by washcroft

That's what I was going to do, but then I realised there would be no where for a junction box to be kept to connect to the 1m "sealed" tail of the lights to the supply cable.

Hello, I’m planning to have block paving installed and would like to include recessed ground lights along the border bricks. I’m struggling to understand how these can be installed - most ground lights have a 1m tail and not enough room directly underneath them for the exess cable/waterproof...

Easily done, it was a tricky one to explain!

It's OK now, the people above got it and provided me with the solution I needed. Thanks anyway.

I am referring to the two lives being independently controlled, not the appliances. Only one of the two lives will ever be energised at any one time, never both. ...this is why the simple solution of Switch A providing Switch B is a non starter.

I'll have a look, cheers. Also look like they will do what I need, thanks.

It would be, except they are both independently controlled - either one of two lives will be live, never both.

It is dependant, consider Appliance B as a booster for Appliance A - there would be times when you wouldn't need Application B. That is exactly what I need, do they come in other forms - something with terminals I can mount somewhere?

Thank you, but I can't replace the "switches" - that term was used to simplify the scenario. Basically I have two lives which are switched digitally.

Hello, What would I use to stop the following, a relay of sorts? Simplified: Switch A - Gives Live to Appliance A Switch B - Gives Live to Appliance A and B The problem is that when Switch A is used, Live gets to Appliance B through its connection with Application A on Switch B. I...

Cheers for that, the hardest bit is working out how to get a cable from the cylinder stat to the programmer on the other side of the house in the garage. Where would the motorised valve best be fitted, nearer the boiler or nearer the cylinder? If the latter I'll run a cable for that at the...

I thought so, I'll have to look at a C plan conversion when I have a bit more free time. In the meantime I'll tweak the wiring at the programmer so that it can control hot water on its clock timer and the thermostat can control central heating - that way assuming thermostat doesn't demand...

...took it off, had a fiddle with the PCB, put it back and now it works and is showing the correct temperature :shock: Anyway, I'm happy, thanks to all who replied :) One other thing... My system is open, gravity fed and has no motorised valves anywhere for separate control of hot...

Yer I'm going to, it's definetly wrong its reporting 10 degrees in a warm house with the digital thermometer showing above 20.

It was brand new, boxed.