Recent content by WhatsHisFloat

not sure i understand the border thing entirely, but fill gaps with bonding, you can use bonding to dub out/level out areas that need it, scrim tape joins and edges, skim... personally i prefer to staple scrim tape, then skim. As for finish, id use multi finish, but others will prefer board...

going back to the original question.. the bit about uni-bonding is refering to them pva-ing before skimming, this needs to be done anyway, im guessing the reason its listed on the quote is so that they can recoup the cost of it as part of materials. the patching needs to be brought back out...

hardwall?

No need to remove old No dont skim without a bead, no sense in that 3mm thincoat angle bead, you can gripfill it in place. Just stick directly over existing, as dmplastering says

if its that much of a temp bodge up till you rip it down, i wouldnt do anything at all, hardly worth it.. however if you want to do something you could use easy fill i guess

i think it would be easier to scrim the join and feather out the difference bonding. Then reskim the lot unless, its a big ceiling of course... i think it would be easier than messing about fading the new skim coat into the old, and give a better overall finish. My 2 pennies worth anyway 8)

what are you doing with the new plasterboard that is joining it? skimming it or what?

Let us know how you get on

bonding agents provide a key that prevents the skim coat shelling off of the existing top coat - perfect example, you want to reskim a previously skimmed and painted wall.. skimming over the shiney painted surface, the skim is not going to bond to the painted wall... bonding agents effectively...

Tight coat of backing plaster to dub out to existing level and reskim is fine however may crack where new backing plaster meets existing... so a tight coat over the whole lot is fair enough, its only to provide a level and a mechanical key. In which case, it may be just as easy to hack off...

ok so as an update. The friend that i am doing this for has taken the wall in question back to the stone. I had my first attempt at using limelite renovating plaster last night, interesting stuff... I was very cautious with it, goggles, mask, gloves etc... wasnt too sure if to mix it wet...

thanks for replies, yes can float and set render, just not that experienced in doing it, however not getting experience is not helpful either... no offense taken.. no problems using gypsum, limelite eh... this could be the answer then, it will be a first using this product - whats it like to...

Hi I am hoping for some advice from the chaps in the know. I dont have very much experience with rendering internal or external, plastering im ok. A friend has asked me to tidy up their front room in a period early 1900 house, two internal walls and one exterior wall where the window is...

thanks for reply, so using that i can see that the price difference is over £100 straight away.. and this is what i mean, the pricing tools for the general public, rough cost or not, seem to undervalue by quite alot.

ive just come across a pricing calculator for plastering, the premise being that the punter can see what its likely to cost, by providing the room sizes and a couple of other options... i.e. new ceiling, remove old plaster etc what struck me the most was how low the prices were, is it just me...