Recent content by willroy

fitted new aps today working great.Thanks for all your help

Had a good look at it today.checked out aps looked ok.Has a common supply with normally open and normally closed contacts.Power was going to aps but didn't look like it was switching when fan gets to full speed.Checked with meter when fan at full speed hey presto boiler lights up .Removed meter...

If i short the terminals to make a circuit should pinpoint fault ie if boiler fires up aps switch if not something on pcb

a picture would be nice.

Where there is an integral garage ,the above ceiling has to have insulation to conform to building regs.The thickness off insulation i am not sure but there more the better

obvoiusly the chimney is now redundant.I would personally remove it completely.Starting at the top working down once below roof you can felt battern and retile very easily.It may take you a while if you do it yourself cost would be minimal just disposing of bricks or re using for another...

Put the damp coarse across the cavity may be tricky if you have different heights ,then with overlap tape to membrane on existing floor if there is one.

I built a sort of log flume out of scaffolding planks lined with visquine .Set up 3 starting high at mixer end then going lower around a bend.Worked a treat so long as the concrete is nice and wet.

Hi just done something similar but on a new build.The french doors if fitted to the level of the damp coarse would have been a brick high above floor level.I wanted the door opening at floor level so removed the outer wall of one brick high to fit the french door leaving the inner wall as...

Is the wall above supporting anything?.If yes a rsj is needed.A structual engineer can come in charge a few hundred quid and tell you to put a rsj in which you were going to do anyway.Look at the wall above if it does not support anything take it down and put a stud wall up.It may be...

Looking at the tap you may have to remove the handle(un screw) to locate a grub screw attaching outer cover to tap.Once removed isolated both water supplies and uncrew the fitting(valve) i think looking at it it is a ceramic valve.you may be able to buy a kit for this ,if it is not the ceramic...

You could bolt the beam to the wall of the house .Purilns do not need to be strapped like the wall plate does.

You can use a spaecial rapid adhesive for porous tiles like granite marble and slate,but i found using unibond normal rapid set worked great for just over a tenner a bag .If the tiles are polished sealing may not be needed but a quick coat before laying and after will stop any grout entering...

Hozelock sell a adapter for your taps to connect a hoze try b and q

Starting from bare wall ? or old plaster?. Bare wall easier to dry line then skim one coat board finnish. Old plaster pva first to give new plaster something to stick to otherwise will just crack/craze.Then just skim with multi finnish .( times out of ten i'd dry line warmer walls...