Recent content by wkdmarty

No, it doesn't matter whether hot only or both, it seems to do it more when the c/h is actually running. Incidentally, I've noticed that whilst running the hot tap for a while a click is heard, the "pilot light" goes out, the hot water turns cold, then about 20 seconds later, another click...

The pressure at the boiler was a reading from the boiler pressure guage as Thames Water guy (quite rightly) will not test pressure there. The other places he tested pressure seemed consistent at 2.25bar. Flow rates are 22ltr/min on outside tap (the only other tap on the ground floor apart...

OK, so all tests done by myself including taking the taps apart. It seems that in the kitchen tap, there's a stupid eco-flowreducer! Kitchen tap problem identified. Moving on to the boiler, I'm going to have to get an engineer out to flush it I think. The Thames Water guy suggested that...

That's what I thought. When I get in I'm going to start kicking things and doing my own diagnosis. Something VERY fishy going on. Will let you all know (for future fault finders).

When I checked and noticed the low flow rate, I closed the stopcock and repoened it fully. No change. Literally this is how it is. [code:1] Outside Tap (2.25bar 22ltr/min) Kitchen Tap (6ltr/min) Boiler (1.5bar 6ltr/min) | |...

Here's a puzzling thing, just had Thames Water round. Cold water pipe from ground into stopcock, then within 1mtr goes into boiler, pressure when refilling boiler doesn't go above 1.5 bar. Kitchen tap is also about 1mtr from stopcock, "cannot test pressure apparently" but flow rate 6ltrs /...

No, the blue light stays on. There's clicking like it's switching something many times.

That's 6ltr/min at the first tap. My stop valve is 1m from that tap. Hot from same tap is 6ltr/min too. 1.5 bar max pressure too. Thames water coming out Wednesday to check. Will let you know what they say. Thank you.

3 didn't seem to know anything. In fact, it took "a senior engineer" to come out on one occasion and sort the issue, but even that was a temporary fix, as I still have the issue. I don't mind paying £300 to Worcester, but they don't guarantee to fix it for that price. What I don't want to do...

That said, I don't mind paying, if it actually fixes the problem. What I hate is when I get charged and the engineers are guessing.

That's the problem, I've had 4 engineer visits in the last 2 years and NONE have fixed the problem.

So I tested the flow, I'm getting a shade under 6ltrs a minute on the cold water in. Is that too low? Do I need to get an engineer in to get the crap out of the plate thing? I'm quite technically minded.

Hi, I have a Worcester Greenstar 25Si that has had a problem for the past 3+ years. I've had engineers out and parts have been replaced, but none have fixed the problem. I'm about to throw it away and never buy a Worcester again. I was wondering, being as the collective Internet is...