Recent content by WoodYouLike

are you a parrot??

read the instructions.

Yes, great stuff

He's right about not using new bitumen in the house - that's no longer allowed. But bitumen stains on blocks don't do any harm, as long as you don't heat them

Are you sure all boards would be 1100mm? If anything, longer boards mean fewer joints (which can act as hinges, so the fewer the better)

Yes, plus their own weight. Undercut all architraves and slide the boards underneath it, this will also hold them down

Just a bit of gentle force, it shouldn't take a hammer

That's way too loose! Bring back what you bought and ask a refund, they've sold you rubbish!

Why would the hallway be too narrow for floating?? Do use a thresholds in between the areas, the climate in the hallway will be different than in the larger area. And use an underlayment that doesn't contain a DPM since all your underfloors will be either existing floorboards or sheet material

IMHO the right decision!

I'm more interested in the shortest lengths, I'm guessing there are loads of around 300mm??

It depends on the width and the length of the 18mm boards if you can use the floating method. What is the size of the boards?

Your Bamboo floor is too narrow and too short to install floating (by using an underlayment and glueing the T&G. Knowing the T&G of bamboo flooring I wouldn't secret nail it either, but fully bond the board with flexible adhesive to your plywood underfloor

It also depends on the quality of your wood-engineered boards, especially the quality bonding between top-layer and backing. For instance, these products are highly suitable for UFH and could tackle the hot-spot - as long as you treat your UFH normally and don't exceed the maximum temperature...

How "large" is this hot-spot?