Shower booster install

Hi everyone

I'm looking to have a booster pump install into my house as the 2 showers my current system run are just not good enough.

I have a baxi solo boiler (not combo) and a gravity feed system, my header tank is in the loft it's a big tank and it feeds into the hot water tank in a bedroom airing cupboard below I'd say around 2m below the fill point of the tank.

Here are some pictures








The tank has the inlet to the right hand side bottom of the tank

The first and second picture I'm not too sure what they are? Is that the central heating booster?

Above the hot outlet is T'd off twice one leads to the shower one the other to the bathroom taps and bath tap/shower mixer and then down towards the downstairs hot taps.

Now I'm not a professional plumber obviously but I feel confident enough to fit a booster pump I have in the past fitted many sinks and baths etc and don't find that hard at all. But I don't know the best way to do it.

After doing some research I think I'm opting for a Stuart tuner pump that's number one.

bow would u guys go about plumbing this in?

the first two pictures are the pump and three port valve, they're nothing to do with want you want to do,
you'll need to take a seperate cold supply from the tank in the loft to one inlet side of the pump, and one from the cylinder (hot) to the other inlet.
use a surrey flange for the cylinder, and a 22mm tank connector for the cold water storage tank.

http://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/medi...gle-and-Twin-ShowerPump-WholeHousePump-IG.pdf

Pages 7-9.

An important consideration is to ensure is that you don't take hot water from where air bubbles collect at the top of the hot water cylinder and can get drawn into the pump which causes cavitation. You can fit a special flange to the cylinder, but there are easier methods which work well. Here are two.

1. Here, the 'T' off to the pump is below the vent so that the air bubbles will have risen up the vent pipe.


2. By modifying the outlet from the top of the cylinder as below. The gradient allows the air to rise upwards to the vent, and the 'T' for the shower pump is positioned so that the flow is from the bottom of the incline section.

As was mentioned in the first couple of posts, use a dedicated feed from the hot and cold supplies to the pump, try to avoid using any of the current distribution pipework, cutting into that to supply the pump.

This is for one primary reason, it avoids any interruptions to the water supply to the pump and therefore the showers, if someone uses any hot or cold water anywhere else in the rest of the house.

I installed a grundfoss one bar pump to power my wet room shower it's a bit noisy but it does the job!!

I see bad things ahead for the op, if you want to do a bit of diy plumbing start with something a bit simpler.

picasso said:

I see bad things ahead for the op, if you want to do a bit of diy plumbing start with something a bit simpler.

Click to expand...

Like hoselock garden hosepipe connections?

stem said:

An important consideration is to ensure is that you don't take hot water from where air bubbles collect at the top of the hot water cylinder and can get drawn into the pump which causes cavitation. You can fit a special flange to the cylinder, but there are easier methods which work well. Here are two.

1. Here, the 'T' off to the pump is below the vent so that the air bubbles will have risen up the vent pipe.

Untitled

• stem
• 1 Feb 2011
• 5

2. By modifying the outlet from the top of the cylinder as below. The gradient allows the air to rise upwards to the vent, and the 'T' for the shower pump is positioned so that the flow is from the bottom of the incline section.

Untitled

• stem
• 1 Feb 2011
• 1

Click to expand...

Good effort - it's also all in the installation manual I linked this thread to.