Kitchen Unit Install Help Needed

Captain Nemesis said:

And if youve done the sensible thing of having the cupboards only a few mm below the ceiling?

Click to expand...

Those instructions are for base units, solution already supplied by J&K.

Three in a row?

Then you put the first one (for sale of argument the right hand one) in position and drill through the side somewhere where the hole won"t be seen, e.g. beneath a hinge or behind where a shelf is going, and fix through into the wall there. The left hand gable end panel is bracketed onto the wall on the outside at the top.

The middle unit has a small clearance recess routed or chiselled into the outside of the right hand gable end panel able to accommodate the bracket and is slid into position. There need to be 4 or more screws driven through the right hand gable end panel to connect it firmly to the first unit. To get a good fix the units need to be clamped together with a non marring clamp a d good quality screws use (I recommend Hospa as they are specifically designed for kitchen fitting). Make sure your screws don't punch through the other side and use a carbide tipped drill/countersink of the correct size to get a clean hole. These screws are hidden under hinges, behind shelves, etc. The second unit is then bracketed onto the wall on the top, outside of the left hand gable end panel

The third unit is treated the same way as the second, however because you can't get a bracket onto the left hand gable end panel, it is drilled through and screwed to the wall the same way as the first unit's right hand gable end panel was.

If there is a gap between the outside units and the wall (which should be filled with a scribed filler) it will be necessary to fix a packer onto the outside of the gable end panel before sliding the unit into position and fixing to the wall

By screwing the units together the mass of the combined units combined with their load of kitchen stuff is normally sufficient to prevent any movement, so multiple wall brackets are often superfluous. If you don't like the hidden screws approach it is possible to purchase white, brown or silver cabinet connectors instead, but they are more obvious. If screw holes can't be made in a hidden location they be disguised by covering them using circular self-adhesive melamine caps from Fast Cap (sold in the UK by Isaac Lord, Amazon and Rutlands). This is all standard kitchen fitter stuff because TBH the guys in the office often don't know their arse from their elbow when it comes to installations and the advice they give is often wrong (at least from my limited experience if kitchen fttingi). The key is to be neat, hide your fixings and bracketry and use decent quality screws (e.g Hospa, Reisser and Spax)

Captain Nemesis said:

Anyway....


Whats your common sense solution for driving these screws into the wall?

View attachment 236242

Click to expand...

The kitchen my wife ordered was Wren and the backs are quite thick and not removable, I just drilled a single hole for each bracket but at an angle of about 40 degrees and put the raw plug and screw in at an angle. It probably makes a stronger fixing than straight in too...

Bodgedbuild said:

The kitchen my wife ordered was Wren and the backs are quite thick and not removable, I just drilled a single hole for each bracket but at an angle of about 40 degrees and put the raw plug and screw in at an angle. It probably makes a stronger fixing than straight in too...
View attachment 236273

Click to expand...

And what if there isnt a large enough gap between the top of the cupboard and the ceiling to do that?

L shape bracket down onto the units edges, it looks like three units, I'd laser the level they all need to be at, mark it and install the units separately to allow for moving them left or right a little, middle one would go in last. Leave all the screws slightly loose until all three units have been leveled to each other and screwed together then nip them up. That's probably easier to write than to read! The Wren instructions are very "generic" so best taken with a huge pinch of salt..

Bodgedbuild said:

The kitchen my wife ordered was Wren and the backs are quite thick and not removable, I just drilled a single hole for each bracket but at an angle of about 40 degrees and put the raw plug and screw in at an angle. It probably makes a stronger fixing than straight in too...
View attachment 236273

Click to expand...

Pivoting impact driver extension or wobble bit driver...

I've managed to get around this one by cutting a hole in the back, screw through it and then cover with a cap.

The next problem (opportunity) i have now is in the filler strip that is in the pic, i installed this flush to the body side of the first tower ie not the door. Looking at it now, i am wondering if this should be actually flush with the door?

If there are doors to be fitted to the middle section then it may look better line with the doors.
Personally I dont mind an open space on the end of a run with some shelves for trays etc but then I prefer to use all available space over so called clean line

Yeah i know what you mean, i am trying to work out where the cornice (i think thats what its called, the big long bit that goes across the top of the run) and whether this goes flush with the doors or in line with the body of the cabinets. The end panel i have put on goes flush with the doors but if the cornice goes flush with the body and not the doors there will be a bit where they meet where it will not be in line.

What i think i am trying to say is i need to install the cornice so that it is flush with the doors and the filler panel needs to be refitted so that it is flush with the doors and not the body.

Many thanks for the vid, yeah looks like they go flush with the doors. i'll sort out the filler bit later on i think, pretty sure it needs to be on the same level as the doors too.