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The reason for wanting to bolt rather than nail is because this is going onto to an existing roof and I don't really want to disturb the slates and ageing felt by hammering away at the rafters. I feel more comfortable drilling and bolting and taking my time with it that way. Will be a lot...

I'm bolting some roof timbers together, specifically collar ties to rafters. What is the absolute most belt and brace/foolproof way to do this? So far I am looking at Stainless M12 Hex head + M12 Square washers + with a dog tooth washer between the timbers. I also considered coachbolts /...

Thanks, not sure on the brand but was told both have swiss bar and 28mm. One has come in at 1.9U and the other 1.4. Does feel low compared to what else there might be out there. i've made my mind up anyway and I am getting them in clear.

I am having some windows made and the joiner and I have to decide whether or not I want tinted window panels. They're tinted for thermal efficiency. Compared to untinted double glazing they are 1.9U vs 1.4U. Which seems pretty significant. My house gets very little direct natural light and I...

Hi, I've got a large workshop which is a single skin wood construction built on top of a concrete slab with a corrugated roof. The building is warm and relatively dry but a lot of a metal tools do build up rust pretty quick. The wooden structure is by no means well sealed from the outdoors. If...

I am getting the old and rotting windows on my property replaced with bespoke hardwood framed windows. At a minimum they're going to be double glazed, but given the costs involved I am wondering whether I should go for triple glazing. If it makes any difference, the windows don't actually get...

My house is in the perpetual shade in what seems to be an abnormally rainy area. As a result and keep getting moss and other flora build up on the most shaded parts and the lower couple of feet of the exterior walls. I am thinking giving them a good brushing getting whatever lifeforms I can...

Thanks for the reply. So basically that'd be leaving this wall as a "wet" and non-breathable wall? I think my issue with that, is whilst that might be the best I can do for the retaining wall, it doesn't seem like the right approach for the other two external walls for that room...

One external wall of a room in my property is constructed from solid stone but also serves as a retaining wall. The room has 2 other external walls which are not retaining walls but are also solid stone. All of the walls have been rendered in what appears to be a cement render, then plastered...

Thanks again. That answer everything I wanted to know. TBH, I just had a look at another local building merchants website and they do a premix bag for cheap with hydrated lime in it. Just gonna go for that and call it good. like Blup said, I am sure it'll be fine.

Foundation is probably an overstatement. It's just small stone wall to level the ground for the log store and keep its timber feet off the ground. Reason for thinking about lime is simply so it looks nice and fits in with the surrounding stone work as it will be on view.

Thanks Jeds, and you're absolutely right, whilst rushing around I didn't pay attention to Hydraulic vs Hydrated. It is of course Hydrated being sold. I've done some further googling and can't quite get answer; when would you want to add hydrated lime to mortar? Does it have an impact on the...

Hi, I'd like to build a very small foundation for a large wood clad log store to ensure that it is off the ground and also level. Everything else in the area is built from stone and lime mortar so I was just going to effectively built a short (<1ft) and level wall out of stone and sit the legs...

haha it was my neighbours who suggested the idea! Although they might be playing the long-con to get me in trouble.

Great, thanks. That's very helpful. The current size is 18" out from the wall, and I am tempted to extend it to 24" so it's wide enough for a chair an small table. That's still a fraction of 1/3 of their overall length. I'll probably offer up some drawings and photos to this forum before I...

Thanks for all your help! Just to clarify that, if a 2x8 c24 joist is 6ft long - you could have 4ft inside the interior of the property, and 2ft extending beyond the exterior wall?

It had ventilation from below. As I said, I am rebuilding it, so happy to add in better ventilation. It and a DPM between the joints and the deck that went over the top of it. This will be reinstated. But I was tempted to give it a few coats of either weatherproof paint and/or bituminous paint...

Nope, I am hoping to keep the existing joists, but replace the boxing around it, as that was exposed the elements. Just wondering if there were any regs about this stuff.

Hi, My house has a Juliet balcony which is constructed from the internal joists that then extend out of the house acting as a cantilever on the external blockwork. This balcony needs some work and I'll basically be rebuilding all of the box section it and re-treating and then weather painting...

Thanks for all of the replies. I think it's a hybrid of a few things. The drill bit is true, but it is also fairly long so and I think the hammer action is just causing too much vibration for material. Using my two drill strategy seemed to work and I got my job done. Thanks for all the help.