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Yes I do. Brilliant idea, I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks.

yes its the one in my previous post. It was an absolute bugger to get off. Took the best part of the day. Soaking, levering, etc. I've just measured and ordered a new one. I think I'll get away without the collar, in the mean time I'll try your suggestion. Thanks.

I've removed a leaky tap valve from a bathroom tap. However it has a stainless steel collar on the valve see pic. How do I take this off with damaging. Or can I dismantle the valve and repair. The leak is coming from the from part.

removed

It's move a few millimetres but just don't want to move anymore. Trying to avoid buying a replacement tap but might not have much choice.

Ok so there was an additional grub screw underneath the handle. I've unscrewed the grub and still the lever is stuck fast. Tried all the suggestions. I'm now soaking both grub screw holes with non silicone wd40 and leaving for half an hour. It's a right bugger.

Thanks, I'm beginning to suspect that the lever handle is also holding it on. Although this is stuck as well. Will try hot water and scale remover if I can find some.

I've taken out the grub screw from the back of the tap lever. However the lever is stuck fast. Used silicone spay in the gaps and used a screwdriver to try and pry off. Am I missing something. Or is it a case of brute force being careful not to damage the tap. I need to change the valve as it's...

Yeh, they are earthed. Thanks

I’m sprucing up my kitchen and have purchased an LED bar ceiling light (Defurhome). I’ve installed them as you can see in the photo, however i’ve noted this light only has an ip rating of 20. The lights are LED GU10. The kitchen occasionally suffers from steam from the hob but the lights are...

I’m sprucing up my kitchen and have purchased an LED bar ceiling light (Defurhome). I’ve installed them as you can see in the photo, however i’ve noted this light only has an ip rating of 20. The lights are LED GU10. The kitchen occasionally suffers from steam from the hob but the lights are...

Thanks for the info. Whats the difference between doing this and a soak test?

Hardwired

I assume by referring to the engineers manual that i’ll need to do a soak test?

Is there a way of doing a full alarm test without the bell box sounding. The walk test has been done successfully but ideally i would like to do this on full armed mode to make sure it's working how it should without ****ing the neighbors off.

Deleted thread

The PIR is in the hallway and set for a timed exit. Entry/exit1, 60 seconds with a change in tone around 15 seconds before arming its self. Its works well allowing time to exit, and entry i think is set to 45 seconds.

Sorted, thanks for the advice.

part 2 omit for the hall?