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Where do these plumbers come from? :roll: As terrydoh says it's is quite normal . A couple of things : Check that the pipework you are connecting into will supply enough water for the new rads. It's possible that you might need to upgrade some of the upstairs pipe to 22mm to do the job...

Check the thickness of yours though. The ones in the bathroom I'm in the middle of doing are about 18mm. Victorian house, but these are late 1960's boards AFAIK. Some of the victorian boards in that part of the house are even thinner :-)

AIUI though, you do have to be suitably registered to install an unvented cylinder, not just to self certify the installation. Elec is a bit different, I can DIY notifiable work, I just need to notifiy building control. I didn't think there was provision for this sort of thing with...

AIUI though, you do have to be suitably registered to install an unvented cylinder, not just to self certify the installation. Elec is a bit different, I can DIY notifiable work, I just need to notifiy building control.

I think the OP mean the HW cylinder is gravity fed by the CWSC in the loft, rather than a gravity HW heating system. (I fell foul of this confusion in another thread recently) Ah, I fell foul of this confusion in another thread.

a picture of a fitting might help identity stuff as well, if you don't know the make. Note MDPE is the blue stuff used for water mains, outside supplies etc. the plastic pipes used for CH are different

None at all, or just not in the shower? I would fins a point in the shower supply pipe -say an isolation valve. disconnect the pipe attach a bit of hose or flexible pipe and then see if I runn off water from kit does the boiler fire up and HW flow ok. If it is ok, then unless there is a...

Well, you might not be able to program it differently, but post a piccie, someone will probably recognise it. Or look for instructions on the drayton website http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/supportingdocuments.aspx?id=1504#

Ah yes, makes sense now :-) Although it looks complicated, if you are methodical it's easy enough to check the connections are all correct/find the wrong ones. Still entirely unimpressed that a plumber and electrician between them didn't think to check the wiring, it's basic stuff and...

Though the OP said that they have gravity HW so not the normal S plan, even though they have two zone valves, so it would need wiring a bit differnetly

Oh right, so I've not seen it before is supposed to be some sort of diagnostic procedure? If they think there was a conflict why did they not investigate? where do these people come from. :roll: In essence they are just switches, why would they conflict? However, I'm still pondering this...

Do you want a basic on/off stat to replace you existing one, or do you want a programmable one- which allows you to set different temps through the day

Hm, waiting until you heating stops working in the middle of winter wouldn't be my preferred option.... Does it always turn on the boiler with a 15 mins delay. Then I would check with a multimeter that things that were switching - programmer, output from the zone valve microswitch etc...

If you want a plug and chain then getting a basin with the requisite hole would be the best way................ ;-) Connect to the over flow? What sort of over flow? If it is a buit in overflow, with typically a slot then I can imagine the sort of fitting that might work, with soem sort of...

Note that in the room where the stat is you shouldn't really have a TRV on the rad - the TRV might be set so that the room never gets hot enough for the room stat to turn off, even when the rest of the house is hot. You should remove the head from the TRV in that room.

The frost stat will turn on the system once temp drops, which unless the garage rad is on a separate zone , will turn on the heating for the whole house as well (which you may or may not want), and it will stay on until the garage comes up to temp.. But to stop the pipe/rad freezing you don't...

That's a rather open ended question, basically 'tell me about plumbing a wetroom'. Where should one start? . Rather more specific queries are likely to get better answers. And info you have, such as what you have already in terms of hot and cold water systems, and what you plan - eg pumped...

See: http://www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/boiler-central-heating-faqs.175736/ To add to that. There might be more than one drain off point. If you have any rads fed by pipes from above there should be a drain on that section of the system as well. Check the washer on the drain cocks...

Well you have stored hot water, by the sounds of it not at mains pressure (mostly likely a domed top copper cylinder, covered with foam insulation, or an jacket if old). There will be a cold water cistern in the loft, feeding this tank, and possibly some of the cold taps or toilets (you can tell...

You don't even have to have the shared pipe running under your house. We have two incoming mains pipes in our house (probably because many moons ago it was two houses) - fed from the same pipe from the water main, which AFAIK runs up the drive before coming into the house in the relevant...