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I'm in the process of a new kitchen install and coming to the end - thank god! My last task is the sink, of which I opted for the Bristan Gallery Quartz 1.5 bowl sink. Now, the issue that I have got, is that it does not sit flat against the worktop - as the sink itself is not level. It is...

I went for the Luca Gloss White (handleless J Pull) with Black Glitter quartz which was ordered via diykitchens but is subbed out to Natural Stone Surfaces.

I'm in the same boat, only a few damaged items that I reported online straight away via their "support ticket" system. The items were replaced without any fuss and were delivered promptly. Overall I have been impressed with DIY Kitchens so far.

If it were me, I'd use a bolster chisel and be careful not to catch the tile edge.

Those Pyronix you mention look nice after a quick google of them - believe me, anything will be better than the current ones! Although no smokers in our house, think nicotine stained colour in appearance!

Obselete then! :(

Thanks for your response. This is the current sensor - in the photo. I do not have any pets (exept the gold fish!) so not too worried about pet friendly sensors!

Hi guys, I have a Scantronic 9448+ and want to replace the sensors - not because there are any faults, but because the what was once white plastic shells of the current ones have deteriorated over time and the plastic has turned yellow. They now stick out like a sore thumb against my white...

I'm replacing my kitchen which is U shaped with base units all round except where the integrated dishwasher will be. The current layout at the end of the U is Corner unit, dishwasher, sink unit, 200mm open unit, then the other corner unit. What I am replacing with is exactly the same with...

I'm literally doing the same myself. I purchased a cheap SDS rotary hammer drill and a specific tile lifting chisel from a well known retailer. With a bit of perseverance it removes the old adhesive very well. Be prepared for a lot of dust! I butchered an old flexi tub by cutting an opening on...

Here is an example of using the 8x1 and a 5x2 to cap the top.

Have you thought about battening the wall and using 8x1 to clad it for the same effect, if you're doing this purely for aesthetics. You could then cap the top of the wall with a 5x2 (or bigger depending on what overhang you want) but would save you going to the expense of the 8x4 thick sleepers...

Ironically, in the adverts at the bottom of this thread, is an advert for a base kit that essentially looks like those geogrids/gravel grids and gravel for driveways with some permeable weed membrane underneath it all. Here is the link for you to use for the photographs only...

Hedge would be too much maintenance for me and as it's only a small garden would take up too much space width wise.

Definitely not nude sunbathing!!! Am definitely open to the hit and miss, I only initially swayed towards feather board as that is what most of the neighbours have put up. I'm currently unavailable to see how they have affixed their posts due to the drop on the other side of the wall.

Oh the irony! Have just googled it and the picture I used to describe the fence posts on the wall is actually hit and miss - I didn't even notice! So, yes, I could use Hit & Miss although wouldn't that be heavier than a feather board fence?

I should also ask then, if it is not suitable, what other options do I have? I can not dig down below the wall as the 9 inch thick footings are 20cm below ground so could dig a hole to not cement posts. All ideas appreciated

The fence will only be for privacy so providing this is achievable then yes. does hit and miss not leave gaps between so people could see through though?

Hi Guys, I want to attach a new fence to a new block retaining wall (blocks laid flat). The wall is 70 cm tall and therefore the posts would be bolted to the wall to the full height of 70cm. Would this be sufficient to support a 1.65 metre tall feather board fence on top? I would be using...

Has anyone used scaffold poles as an alternative to wood fence posts? They seem quite popular in the USA - but they have pole to wood adapter clamps out there (for the rails) that I don't seem to be able to find here.