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so if water goes off - cylinder stat being wired faulty would cause heating to ALWAYS come on? any ideas on what wire/s is wrong and where they should go? I did look at some diagrams but with my day job being I.T I quickly felt out of my depth.

i wasnt going to flatten the ceiling tbh.. have it meet at 30 degrees in a triangle. if building inspector picks it up I can always have joiner put collars in, i did read that unless they are a third down they are useless anyway? this is the roof - **note the horizontal pieces are now gone -...

valve just been replaced, i have completely powered it off already a few time before to no avail. Its a honeywell 4073a, there is resistance and whiring.. and it does go back to auto.

with both ch and water set to off on controller I have 240v on the orange/brown/brown for a few mins the boiler goes off and it drops to 0v. I always have 240v on the grey/earth combo (why is there an earth jammed in with grey?) the earth is from the boiler tstat.

see pics

well I have had 3 people out to my boiler now.. long story. turned water off and ch is on but thermo not calling for heat and boiler fires up and rads get hot. whenever water goes off rads go on regardless of ch setting on controller or thermo setting. now I've set ch and water to off on...

well the joiner never put any on so we will see I guess... worst case I'll have to get an SE to ratify the design.

just spoke to BCO - he didn't say it was a silly idea.. spoke again to the joiner and he has said to get 10x4 bco also wanted 12mm kingspan so 6x2 out for rafters.. going to get 8x2 rafters and put 150 kingspan in roof and use either 25mm or 50mm insulated plasterboard as well.. rather too...

at other end just standard gable... yes 3.5m.. I'm happy with a beam but just think this is overkill..

what size ridge beam would you guys recommend for for vaulted ceiling? the room plan is 3.5x3.5m and I planned using infills of 150x50mm? I am being told 12x4? seems crazy big. also are purlins required for such a modest roof? tiles are marley mendip concrete - not sure on pitch yet.. maybe 35'

ah ok i get it. thanks fellas. most helpful again!

so for the two walls the are at right angles to the joists.. do I need to do anything to add strength to the wall there?

On the side depicted and it's mirror I accept it's not perpendicular and doesn't get strapped. on the other two the end joists do run perpendicular one of those is a newly built wall but the other one won't even have a wall when we knock through!

I just don't see how joist straps could have even been installed by this joiner... bricky has taken blockwork up level and said rest joists on there... is now blaming joiner for not putting straps in. there's nothing to put straps onto.. was he supposed to put straps on and bricky slide a brick...

apparently I should have some "joists straps" and I don't... my joists rest on the blockwork. is this a big problem? possible solutions?

very suttle m8 ;-) Apologies for asking again.. Just stick to ideal then? am I overthinking it.... is a themrostatic bath shower mixer needed? trying to keep costs down but not at the expense of scolding my daugther! Read more...

you can even get it in wickes!

I got one for my kitchen a while ago thinking "oooh grohe" because I thought they were the dogs and I was underwhelmed. Just stick to ideal then? am I overthinking it.... is a themrostatic bath shower mixer needed? trying to keep costs down but not at the expense of scolding my daugther!

so I am looking for a bath shower mixer and pick this, good trusted brand. http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/bathroom/bathroom-taps/bath-shower-taps/ideal-standard-tempo-1-hole-bath-shower-mixer-chrome-b0733aa.html Then I see one that's "thermosatic" and think I need that.. and the...

in fairness I usually buy cr4p! gonna get ideal standard, carronite etc. this time around.