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Thanks for the info, I wanted to check if I needed to add battens above and below the window like the newer ones as it currently doesn’t have them

I’ve managed to straighten out all the flattened panels of the original flashing kit, and have the replacement foam already. But I can’t find an install guide for the old flashing kit as I know it’s not been done properly, and want to make sure it goes on right this time!

Hmm lowering might be difficult as it only just clears the seat now (steel beam Runs perpendicular to it). Is there any way I can raise the flashing instead?

Thanks for the advice @catlad - appreciated! I’ve done some more work and it’s turned into a bigger job, some horrendous botched work underneath. The tiles! I’ve decided to replace the areas of damaged felt while I’m out there, I still am not sure if there is something wrong about the flashing...

I know it needs replacing, unfortunately not having a job for the last two years has kaiboshed that and a potential roof replacement for the foreseeable - so I’m left with trying to make good with what have. Not ideal but it is what it is…

Anyone help at all? Tried to find old install videos but they all redirect to new VELUX install videos now!

I've had water marks appearing around one of my attic windows; usually it's the gutters blocked with moss, but this time it isn't. When checking around, i found several batten sections rotted on one side, which prompted me to remove some tiles....and discover a few horros underneath! 1. The...

This is likely to cause conflicting opinions, but hey… :) We’ve got an extension built in the side of our 1960’s house that was built around 1999. They had botched fire cable through the roof for the outside lights to an fcb in the kitchen. This has now failed and I need to replace. There is a...

I’ve for a Worcester Bosch green star 30i boiler which has a plume pipe fitted outside consisting of the standard right angle, 500mm straight and right angle outlet. Problem is it’s causing issues with steam going into the house when windows are open. From what I’ve seen, there is a 1m extension...

Because I don’t want to change the elevation on the roof and completely rebuild it (currently 15’ instead of 30’ as per plans), I’m trying to ensure the roof is as waterproof as possible and the alleviate any chance of damp like we have at the abutment wall atm. I’m changing the headlap to 100mm...

Thanks mate. Yes I’m pulling all the tiles and old felt off and replacing the felt with membrane as it’s full of holes. As the ridge beam isn’t square to the roof I need to reset the battens as well to try and improve the mess currently there - bending the battens isn’t what I would call ideal…...

Thanks for the reply. All these have the rafters continuing over the gable end (which would make things simpler!) - but my last rafter is about 50mm from the inner gable wall and the wall is very uneven. Currently, there was expanding foam added to try and seal it - which it hadn’t!

Sorry - wanted to give as much context as I could! Ok - I’m replacing knackered felt with membrane and fitting dry verge and ridge. The gable end inner and outer walls don’t meet the battens, do both walls need to be tight to battens and membrane draped over both or do I need a cavity closet or...

I'm making good a (very) poorly built 90's extension roof, and fitting a dry ridge and dry verge. the gable end wall is all over the place - i.e. 50mm gap between batten and roof at the outer, and -30mm towards the ridge - this is due to the inner wall being HIGHER than the rafters towards the...

Anyone?

I’ve been getting some good advice from people on here about this roof already, which helped sorting fascia’s, so thanks! I’m now at the point where I’m fitting a dry verge and as I noticed the ridge tiles were all loose, I decided to fi a dry ridge kit as well. After mammoth amount of mortar...

Yup I know the gradient is nowhere near right- 15 degrees at rafter level. Been like that since cowboy built it in 99, been ok until recently, hence why I’m not changing it yet (and can’t afford to!)

Hi. Thanks for the message, I’m pretty certain it’s not a cavity tray based leak, as the marks are just in the top coving section, which makes me think it’s flashing defects, plus the rafter was only wet the last 100mm or so. Wall is dry lined, attached photo for better idea!