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An impact driver will almost have undoubtedly have a *lot* more torque - ordinarily in the 140-200Nm range (versus 20-80Nm for a drill driver, depending on whether its a £20 or £150 model) :)

I'd also add that there shouldn't be any requirement to use treated timber for that purpose - given the amount of untreated wood up there already, if you *did* need to use it, I expect you'd have far bigger problems anyway! Depending on what the issue was with fitting the last LoftZone support...

Tariffs would have reduced the amount of Chinese steel flooding the market - it was the UK government that vetoed this. Simply put in absolute terms, it's cheaper to import than produce here if these trade practices are not regulated.

I used the LoftZone StoreFloor system - it's definitely the expensive option compared to either nothing or the loft stilts that I've seen in B&Q. However, what I have been left with is a very stable flooring system that I'm happy walking across (and a lot of insulation underneath it). And as...

What is the actual issue sorry? (Meant in a nice way) Worth bearing in mind that the EU proposed increasing the tariffs to counteract the Chinese dumping cheap steel, but this was vetoed by...the UK government!

Couple of things that I would note, as I've recently been in a similar position (terrible ground to start with, excavated to near level, and then left to me to turf on mostly clay). Someone else has queried why you're wanting to compact the soil - this is important, especially if you have clay...

As has been raised by others, this will mainly be driven by your browser cookies. Clearing these, or using a different browser should see these targetted ads reduce.

Indeed - my chipped and tired looking garden wall is testament to this!!

Compared to what sorry?

As has been mentioned, you would usually attach a curtain track to the wall, rather than the ceiling. However in some cases (as in my home), there was no space between uPVC window frames and the ceiling to achieve this, leaving the ceiling as the only viable option. One thing that you...

Depending on how the shelves are being mounted, you may wish to consider threaded rods and resin epoxy. I've recently had to use this myself on both crumbling brick walls and some lightweight blocks to hang some very heavy wrought iron, and it's not going anywhere now!

Oh, and I'd try to remove as much truly flaky paint as possible beforehand (assuming that this doesn't cause any damage to the crumbly bricks that you've mentioned!)

I would be tempted to put a stabilising solution on it first before painting over. I've not used the Everbuild solution myself, but something like this perhaps...

In fairness, I bought a pack of these, and they truly are the most awful PZ 2 bits that I've ever had the displeasure of using. Using decent screws, they still feel as though they want to cam out immediately, and the bits are already rounding off within a few screws worth. Fortunately I didn't...

Unlike the Trade Version (Diamond Matt), I'm not sure the Endurance version has a data sheet. This is the data sheet for the Diamond Matt: http://30c2767b0bd5dcf2ed1b-bbdc079217abc3c5161aab4698c61450.r80.cf3.rackcdn.com/tds/dulux-trade-diamond-matt-tds.pdf This only mentions the following...

I've not used the Endurance version myself, but the Diamond Matt is certainly wipeable - good luck!

It is - here is the product page: https://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/view-product/dulux-trade-diamond-matt "Ideal for high traffic areas such as stairwells and hallways, it is resistant to typical household stains and will repeatedly wipe clean without polishing up." For what it's worth...

Just wanted to pop back and say thank you for replying mister helpful! I ended up giving the area a sanding with 120 grit sandpaper. In some places where the original paint had been applied pretty roughshod, this meant sanding back almost to bare plaster. As a result (and trying to mitigate...

Ideally I would suggest to drill from the inside out still, but appreciate that there are times where this just isn't possible. I would minimise the chances of any blowout by using a smaller drill bit first, avoid putting undue pressure on the drill (and as has been suggested, a piece of...

What do the tile adhesive / SLC manufacturer instructions say? When I did my porch recently (using Mapei products), I needed to prime the original concrete base before applying the SLC, but no further primer was necessary before applying the tile adhesive. Hope this helps!