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Here's the isolator: So I went back up into the loft, still convinced from my findings that the fan was at fault. I had a good look around the fan wiring, and I found something odd. It's a goodun. See if you can spot if from this photo! So yes, I wasted 4 hours of my weekend trying...

Morning :D. Thanks for your help so far. I've just hooked up the perm live terminal to the switched live on the fan: (I'll terminate the earth properly once I've got the fan working). 240V present across live and neutral but still no action from the fan :(, which means the switched...

Ok, so assuming it's an open circuit from switched live to neutral but 240V from perm live to neutral, it must be a problem in the switched live part of the fan, no? I'll try switched live vs earth tomorrow and see where that gets me! I'll also draw a diagram tomorrow of how I've wired it...

Wire from isolator to fan must be continuous surely, or there wouldn't be a potential difference between the perm live and the neutral at the fan? There was 0V between the perm live and the switched live at the fan, which is weird because that would suggest both were at 240V, which if true would...

Thanks guys. I've got a problem, surprise surprise. Firstly though, the 3A FCU was because the instructions state it. As it happens I haven't wired it up after all (yet) :p. I spent most of the afternoon drilling and running the pipe and wires, etc. I found a junction box for the lights...

Yep, built in 1959. Has since been re-wired, but they obviously didn't bother with this bit. Thanks for this. The switch is operating 6 separate downlights and no other fixture. I'm using a 3A FCU and the light circuit is protected by a 6A fuse at the consumer unit. Regarding routing...

Thanks for the reply, it's led to another question! Why would there be two perm lives going into the switch? Surely each switch only needs one perm live? Maybe it's be easier to leave the switch alone and take off from the lighting circuit elsewhere. I have a digital multimeter and I'll...

Hi I'm trying to find the simplest way to take a permanent and switched live off my lighting circuit for an extractor fan. I was going to splice into the feed in the loft and use a junction box of some kind. However upon opening up my light switch I found an interesting arrangement, including...

Tbh I'm such a wimp when it comes to electrics that I tend to knock off the whole house's supply when doing anything and use a torch if necessary.

I've just ordered this off eBay for a tenner: ...and am going to install it in place of the double pole shower isolator you can see in the first image I posted in this thread. Not sure if it falls outside zone 2 quite, or even if it needs to as it's a pull cord...but should be fine...

Thanks but the £25 = 80m^3 per hr. That's not enough air movement for my tastes. Can't you get independent humidistat switches that trigger a separate fan? OK, thanks for that. I'll stick to whatever the instructions say. Ducting - I'm going to use flat PVC ducting to get between the...

Thank you very much for your replies. I'm sensing that the lighting circuit is the favoured option :p so I'll use that for the fan. The idea of using the old shower circuit for a loft socket is so simple yet so beautiful, I hadn't thought of that. The MCB on the consumer unit for the shower...

Thanks for the replies. Can't replace it with a radiator as the area isn't wide enough for one. I could get a taller towel heater though I guess. Yep, I'm intending to operate a timer fan that comes on with the pull cord switch, and stays off for x mins after the pull cord is switched off...

Hi all I'm about to install an in-line extractor fan in our main bathroom. It has a window, but we still get condensation problems as we often have to leave the house very soon after showering for work, so the window doesn't stay open for long enough. It also makes the bathroom freezing and...

Hi again all I'd thought I'd drop in again with the fruits of my labour. You can see the switch top right of the door frame. All went well (though it wasn't much fun righting through the attic space with only two torches with its large spiders and itchy insulation) and your help was much...

OK, interesting. I searched for a while and there wasn't much choice in terms of push-to-break switches. I don't know much about electrical arcs but will the low current draw make an arcing scenario less likely? Incidentally this is the switch in question...

OK cheers guys really appreciate the help. Whilst I understand that safety is crucial it's nice to be able to ask wiring questions without being bombarded with 'hire a spark' replies.

Thanks John. I've re-done my diagram based on what I'm interpreting from the posts above. Could I confirm then that the below is a parallel wiring setup and safe? My first diagram was based on the instruction leaflet: However I can't see any reason why it's any different...

Thanks guys. I didn't appreciate that daisy chaining them such was the same as wiring them in parallel, but looking at efli's diagram it seems obvious now. To address some other points, there's no fireproof plate for the switch and riveralt is correct in saying that the image is just the...

Thanks :P. Regarding daisy chaining them, I was under the impression that that would be the same as wiring them in series, which I thought was a no-no for this type of light. Also the instructions show them wired in parallel like that. Very happy to be corrected on that though, cause it'd...