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You will be repeating that again, in another couple of years..

Well then, it's fairly obvious - you apply the probes across the pumps terminals, to see if you get mains voltage at that point, then work back. Removing the chrome bleed screw on the pump, to check for rotation, might be another way to ensure it is running.

You still need to post a picture from further back, so we can appreciate the overall layout, but... That slow stream of water, in heavy rain conditions, looks as if it might flow straight under that lead work.

If you don't already know how to do this, then I would suggest it might be better to leave to someone who does know, rather than risk injury.

Whoops, in which case no problem with a DIY investigation. As above, check the circulation pump.

Your first step, ought to be to see if power is getting to the pump, then checking if the pump is running, when it has power, but that boiler appears to be room sealed, and so it probably needs a GSE to open it up.

Police said a man in his 30s, originally from India, was detained a short time later on suspicion of attempted murder, causing serious injury through dangerous driving, inflicting grievous bodily harm with intent and dangerous driving. He remains in police custody.

Daylight and what appears to be a water leak, onto the timber in photos 3 & 4. He's taken out a complete rafter, which he should not have done, and for no obvious reason. The Velux rafters, should have had the rafters sistered at either side. Insulation - what insulation?

Neither of the two is a simple nicked outer sleeve on a cable, the mechanic protection, as is under discussion here, which is more than satisfactorily repairable with a few layer of tape. Those examples given are where a screw has pierced the cable, and made metalwork live. The first case seems...

Yes, because of the war, but we aren't using much now, and for a few months. The electric is so cheap, because of the winds at the moment.

When compared to my hour, all day rate, at this moment...

Really you need someone who knows their stuff electrically, and is gas qualified, to open up the boiler - should it be needed. Many electricians will be out of their depth on heating system controls, and few will be gas qualified.

The water level in the tank, will rise and fall, as the heating warms and cools, due to expansion. If you just pour it in the tank without lowering the level, then it may take some time for it to eventually get to the rest of the system. Yes, you can scoop, or even syphon it out. Adding it at a...

The impression I got from what you said, was that the guy that came round to look, either hadn't the skill needed to diagnose, or it was simply well outside his area of expertise. Most heating engineers, would have the expertise needed to diagnose electrical issues, but by no means all. Did you...

My daytime load is around 100 to 300watts, and so a 800w panel should match it, during daylight, but would it be worth it?

Any odd-job type of person ought to be able to tackle it, or have a go at DIY. It's fine here.

You fit them, with the item you are fitting it to, full open/extended. Struts are specified by the unextended length, extended length, and their pressure Newtons.

As a mere mortal, I will continue to put my faith in inhibitor. It has kept my system free of rust, blocked pipes and radiators, for 40 years.

Did you employ someone to come out and do this, if so it's a rather strange response to suggest that they advised 'you to find out where the fault was'?

It looks to be fairly accurate, and these systems might be something I might consider investing in, once I have done the calcs - I've avoided the roof type so far, because I'm not convinced by the idea they would be worth my while, on the roof, they would be out of my direct control to maintain...