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Yes this is first floor. I did not want to get him to put bonding on as I want him to complete the room in a day. If I get him to bond onto the bare brick, surly it will need time to dry? To be fair I have always taken the some what unconfirmed assumption that dry wall is a pain to use and...

Hi, I have had mixed feedback on this. Hopefully a helpful expert on here will be able to help me! I have pulled my old 1930s skirting off the wall. Behind the skirting is the original brick. I now need to attach small strips of plasterboard (probably 4 inches in height) to cover up the...

Hi, Sorry for the lack of updates. So far, I have laid and fitted the perpendicular joist to the ceiling joists. Before I start to lay the boards I wanted to find a bit more out about the construction of the ceiling joists... It appears that there are long joists running from the...

Yeah I see what you mean, going perpendicular will improve weight distribution but not really overall strength of each beam. Laminate will improve each timber strength but loads will still be isolated loading. So its 6 of one half a dozen of another? I will stick with the perpendicular...

Ok, the materials have arrived. I am hoping to get through the job in one weekend. But, a last minute concern. I've been told I should not be laying my 'raising' joists perpendicular to the existing joists. Instead I should be gluing and screwing the new joists on top of the existing joists...

Hi, Slow progress on Sunday! We spent most of the day crawling along the loft clearing out the eaves. Once this was done we started to top up the base layer of insulation as shown in the image below. The socket wiring (you can see in the socket in the image) has been run along a...

So, there is a lot of usual info on this thread with all the helpful responses I've received. So I will post some updates and photos on my progress as this may aid somebody else in the future. Today I cleared out all the old rubbish and the top layer of my insulation (which had been churned...

Hi mountain walker. I appreciate your opinion is fair on not gutting the insulation, but the practicality of working within the existing insulation, rubbish and mess up ment it would be impossible to work within. I've now gutted it. So this brown paper vapour barrier. Your right its...

Hi, well this weekend the project starts. I've decided to gut the loft of its existing insulation and put down some new stuff. So the first layer of insulation going in between the existing joists. I've brought some 'Knauf Eko Base-Layer 100mm thick' (this stuff is ok?). This amount of...

I was going to use these cls studding timbers: http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber/sawn-timber/construction-timber/cls/CLS-Timber-L-2400-x-W-63-x-T-38mm-9275994?icamp=recs THey have radi on the edges. Not square.

Ok thanks. For the raised cross sectional joists. Do you think it would be ok to use basic low cost timber studding? Whislt the timber studdings do nnt have a square edge and are not treated, I cannot see why I would need expensive C16 square edge timbers? Or am I missing something?

No air gap? Ok I thought that was needed for airflow? Final question (I promise), What should I do about the perimeter were the eaves are? Leave a gap? or can I board out until I butt up against something

That link is incredibly helpful link. A near identical problem to my own solved there. Excellent, thanks. I'm still a bit uncomfortable with only having the 200mm of insulation but I cannot see what else I can do in this instance without raising the floor excessively high (all of which is...

Hi, I wish to board my empty loft. In order to do this, from what I have read on here I should add 4x2 battens running perpendicular to the existing joists spaced 400mm apart. I should then have insulation in-between the existing joists, and a crossing layer in between the new battens. Then...

I think I will give the flexible ceiling paint a go. I was going to go with the polycell crack free ceiling paint? Is this ok? Or would you recommend another flexible ceiling paint?

Hi, I am having a nightmare and need some advice. I had my dinning room replastered. Poor plastering job to be honest. The walls are not very level, so when I fitted my coving (covemaster, polystyrene paper wrapped coving) I had to use large amounts of adhesive to fill the varying gap sizes...

I have brought a wall hung electric fire to replace my gas fire. I am now ready to brick up (& vent) the fire place. To make the new fire look perfect I want to hide the cables. However this does not appear to be a simple task..... Firstly if you cut the 3 pin plug off the fire, even to...

Ok thanks very much Deluks, and others. This is my first house and with the help of this website I have had the confidence to tackle jobs I would have otherwise paid somebody to do. I will see how secure the stud work is but I might have to cut my losses and screw it into the chimney too if...

I should also add I have a chimney breast in each room I intend to sound proof. Surly the air gap in the chimney is good for sound absorption? So I only intend to sound proof the alcoves spaces. Is this a fair assessment? So with that the frame can also screw into the side of the chimney...

Yes I have read this a lot, but with only 8.5cm I do not think this will be possible?