Search results

  1. J

    Box Gutters... good or bad idea?

    Just to be clear, the gutter would be where the yellow line is. This is currently where the flat roof of the extension meets the slope of the adjoining pitched roof. So what I'm getting from this thread so far is that rather than have a mostly flat type of box gutter at the bottom of the...
  2. J

    Box Gutters... good or bad idea?

    Thanks all. So this would be a valley gutter. Doesn't it boil down to the same thing with what is basically a tray at the bottom of the valley to collect and channel the water away? I'm assuming the valley gutter would sit above the lower part of the rafters of the two roof slopes so tiles...
  3. J

    Box Gutters... good or bad idea?

    Hello, I want to put a pitched roof over a flat roofed extension. The truss roof has been designed and there would need to be a box gutter at the bottom of two roof slopes - the proposed one and existing. Do these things work well and last or will my new pitched roof end up with an achilles...
  4. J

    Tiling to plaster board and concrete

    We need the adhesive to go on plaster board as well, does this change which adhesive you'd use?
  5. J

    Tiling to plaster board and concrete

    Ah yes, my fault! Sorry Steve!
  6. J

    Tiling to plaster board and concrete

    Thanks Steve. No, not confusing adhesive and grout. When I am talking about thickness of adhesive, I am referring to the need to use different thicknesses on an uneven concrete base to make up the gaps to a level tile surface. As mentioned, we estimate that the deepest area needing to be filled...
  7. J

    Tiling to plaster board and concrete

    Thanks for these really helpful responses. Just to say that the variation in floor level will require adhesive thickness of between 3-4mm and 12mm. We could take the higher parts down a bit - these are near an entrance door so need to think of door clearance and ability to put a mat there in...
  8. J

    Screeding Disaster

    Yeah the primer was done correctly. On the first part anyway. But the first screed layer was covered with a new layer after an hour or two - so not cured - and wasn't primed. As far as I know, you're supposed to let a first layer fully cure, then prime it, then start a new layer on top. If we...
  9. J

    Screeding Disaster

    Underlay and laminate. The surface right now is a bit of a mess. And has added unevenness in levels. Assuming it is structurally sound (I guess we could have a good stamp over it on Monday to see), I'm thinking we hire a floor grinder, even it all out, see how intact the surface is and then...
  10. J

    Tiling to plaster board and concrete

    Prefer to just use tile adhesive.
  11. J

    Screeding Disaster

    So basically, after the photos above, he sprayed water on it and smoothed off to get rid of big holes and spiked surface. I don't know how effectively this will have removed holes below surface. He has then poured again over the top of it all about an hour later. Today it looks like the...
  12. J

    Tiling to plaster board and concrete

    Hello, We are tiling floor and walls using 300 x 600 (9mm thick) tiles. The floors are bare concrete and the walls are 12.5mm plasterboard with a paper covering. I'd be grateful for advice: A) do we need to use primer on the floors and walls? If so, which type? Gaps between plasterboard have...
  13. J

    Screed Disaster

    So basically, after the photos above, he sprayed water on it and smoothed off to get ride of big holes and spiked surface. I don't know how effectively this will have removed holes below surface. He has then poured again over the top of it all about an hour later. Today it looks like the...
  14. J

    Screed Disaster

    Thanks. I suggested just taking it up whilst it was still tacky. Better than trying to do it tomorrow when it is rock hard. We will have to see tomorrow if it has actually worked or not as a surface. He sprayed water over it and smoothed it all out, mostly. There are bound to be some flakey...
  15. J

    Screeding Disaster

    Used Benfer 2-50fl on a new concrete floor primed with SBR. Greatest depth around 15mm. Builder who has used it is experienced and used the product before, albeit less depth. He measured out correct amount of water. Doors closed. Not particularly warm in the room. Anyway, he has run his spiked...
  16. J

    Screed Disaster

    Used Benfer 2-50fl on a new concrete floor primed with SBR. Greatest depth around 15mm. Builder who has used it is experienced and used the product before, albeit less depth. He measured out correct amount of water. Doors closed. Not particularly warm in the room. Anyway, he has run his spiked...
  17. J

    New water main - bedding...

    Yes, although it will connect to the public mains so I suppose has to be in accordance with regulations...
  18. J

    New water main - bedding...

    Hi everyone, I am having a new water main installed at my property tomorrow - 25mm blue pipe buried in a 750mm deep trench. The idea is to put builders sand at the bottom and just on top of the water pipe as bedding although the installer is somewhat reluctant to do this saying it isn't really...
  19. J

    Silicone on rough brick...

    Hello, I'm having new windows and doors fitted into a new extension next week. The bricks are Staffordshire multi rustics. I've asked the window fitting company to use brown silicone as my previous experience suggests that window fitters often leave a nasty silicone finish on these rough bricks...
  20. J

    Extension to house roof issue (building and roof topic)

    Can the GRP valley just be attached to rafters with only felt under it? This is what the roofer for my house has done. Which might explain why it is like a banana. No ply under it.
Back
Top