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Hello, Just interested to hear any thoughts on this. The roof truss company "helpfully" designed a roof where the main girder truss goes over a doorway and sits on the wall plate of the internal wall, below which is a timber lintel. This didn't become apparent until we started putting the roof...

Can your ply idea be done from the inside or do we need to go over the rafters near the eaves like the cheap nasty trays?

But what I mean is, the roll tray stuff is not even 1mm thick. So the idea that it will hold the insulation down over the wall plate and maintain a gap to the felt above seems fanciful. There is no rigidity. Interesting that the roofers merchant asked "what do you want that stuff for, nobody...

Thanks. Builder has returned with the plastic roll tray stuff and it is a joke. Extremely flimsy. So the rood insulation is just going to push it up to the felt and probably close all the gaps.

So what is the minimum air gap required over the wall plate between soffit vents and loft space? I will get the builder to put these ventilation trays in and we will just have to put as much insulation over the wall plate as will fit in the small space available. However, we do need an air gap...

How does that maintain an air gap down to the eaves? Unless that's a different type of roof.

It's around 60mm at the tightest point, partly because the wall plate had to be raised owing to the truss design. I've spoken to the BC inspector and he has said with the need to keep insulation away from the felt (what is the required gap, 50mm?), that the main thing is to have insulation to...

These might show better what I mean about the limited space between roof membrane and top of wall plate...

Thanks for the replies! The roof insulation will be the usual roll stuff, 100mm and 200mm above the ceiling board. Roof covering is concrete tiles above Vent3 membrane. Soffits are vented. I will get him to address this cold spot area. The only trouble is, there isn't much room between the...

Roof insulation hasn't gone in yet so I'm keen to ensure we proceed correctly beforehand. So are you saying the Roof insulation needs to go over the top of the wall plate and meet the top of the cavity insulation? Presumably something is needed to keep the roof insulation off the roof membrane...

Some photos...

Hi all, My extension is now having the soffits done. The inner block skin is noticeably higher than the outer skin. The wall insulation finished at the top of the outer skin. I asked the builder how the top of the inner wall would be insulted given there is a good 30cm above the wall insulation...

Ah, I see. Thank you. He will have to use fibolite then. Thanks again.

Thanks for all the feedback, very helpful.

Right, but as I pointed out in my original post, the commons would be at the top of the blockwork, above the wall insulation. They would be at or above ceiling height. So are commons fine after all?

But why would one course of commons matter when a whole roof will be sat on the same block work?

Why do they need to be aerated?

What are these reasons out of interest? Just so I am armed with the best info when I talk it over with him.

So is the problem weight? But if the blockwork is able to hold up a roof, what difference would a single course of commons make? If he uses the fibolite blockettes instead, which I think are the same size as a brick, is it OK for him to use the 4x3 plate rather than 4x2?

Hello, We are having a house extension built, single storey with a hipped roof. The builder has built the inner skin block work up (fibolites I think) but found that there is an awkward height difference from the current top of the block work and the wall plate of the existing bungalow, which...