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No doubt there is. Just had another Google and it looks like it's true, or it can be in certain circumstances. Out of my price range anyway and I couldn't find any local installers that use these types of products. Admittedly, I could look harder if I had the budget.

Yes, we have good extraction in the bathrooms (100mm solid pipe in the loft connected to a 10mm extraction unit) and the kitchen has an extractor. Washing is nearly always tumble-dried.

Costs and I've heard that it can shrink, causing cracking.

Agreed, we do our best and I'm well aware of all of the contributing factors, but it's incredibly hard to control and much worse of damp days, hence me not knowing if I'm trying to fix a problem that's being caused by my solid walls. I have MVHR on my list, but need to concentrate on one thing...

I wonder if going for a 50mm EPS EWI board would be a better idea than layering up a thermal render? I know the recommended is 90mm, but I just can't sell the set back tunnelled windows to the Mrs. That being said, I'm now reading about the combustibility of EPS and the potential for mould...

The chart I found here https://www.insulationadvice.co.uk/ti-r-values suggests 0.37, still higher than 0.18..... It's a decent enough improvement on what we currently have. Does anyone here have any experience with thermal render in general or the Proofshield product mentioned?

I've been toying with the idea of getting 100mm EPS EWI on my two solid walls for a while now. My wife is concerned about the recessed windows, and I have to admit, this does bother me a bit. This evening, I discovered thermal render systems from Proofshield, where they claim to have some...

Thanks Woody, I've heard mixed views on CWI, but most negative. I may get somebody out for a survey. It's crazy that to improve the thermal properties or my house, I need to ask for permission. How do I even start that process? As mentioned, my plan was to CWI the gable ends and over the...

Hi, apologies for the late reply. Yes, I've seen it and various others, hence me contemplating the DIY route, it really doesn't look that difficult. I've also seen the cork render, but again, I'm not sure about it, to know if it's a proven solution.

Hi everyone. The main walls in my house are solid and need to have external wall insulation applied. I'm contemplating applying the foam insulation myself, as it looks like a DIY job, and I see there are some training courses available at reasonable prices. I'd then get in a pro to do the...

Next question..... Can somebody suggest a suitable switch or can I get any cooker switch? I've seen single-pole and double-pole switches. Edit... A bit of research suggests due to the load, I need a double pole switch. This looks to do the job - MK 45A DP

Thanks for confirming, I think I confused the thread by mentioning the other circuit. Thanks for your help everyone.

Oh, okay. I do have two circuits/connections to the fuse board though as explained. One connects to a 32A fuse (my hob) and one connects to the existing oven 40A.

(In response to johnD) Yes, I understand this. My question is, how do I hard wire my new oven when all I have is a 3-pin plug socket? Do I simply remove this socket and replace it with a big switch and connect both the mains feed and appliance to the switch, the same as my hob has had done...

I think I may have confused the thread by discussing my hobs electrical supply, which has its own feed to the circuit board, but is at the other side of the kitchen. I was discussing this to try and figure out if I should just copy what's been done there for my oven, by replacing my 3-pin plug...

I can't as they are at different sides of the kitchen. The hob also has it's own 32A MCB on the board.

Ah, you're right, that's for the extractor. Every day is a learning day. I will label that one up.

Oh, I see, mine will be integrated into the kitchen units.

So, I was curious and took the big switch apart. It looks like the mains feed comes into it and the hob connects off of it as well. The fused spur doesn't isolate the hob. Couldn't see anything obvious that stopped working when I switched that off, so I think that doesn't play a part here. The...

Oh, I don't know, I just assumed as much. I didn't fit it as it was here when we moved in. Would it be normal for the electrical feed to come into the big switch and the appliance/hob to connect there as well? If that's the case, I wonder what the fused spur is for. Clearly, I'm no electrician.