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Thanks, I will take a look and see how I get on.

I'm not getting very far here. I emailed Heatmiser and they said they need to know the resistance at each temperature? Can anyone help me here and let me know how I get this? I've seen a few video's on youtube where people test the heat mat resistance with a multimeter but I'm guessing this...

Okay, hmm, not sure where to go with this then. I have an electrician coming out at some point, I will check to see if he knows or can measure.....

Just got off the phone to Heatmiser. They said it should work but I need to test that I have at least 10k resistance on the current unit?

Ah, what does that entail (tiled floor)?

I've had a rummage through the paperwork left from the previous owners and have actually found the instructions. It's a Homelux LCD thermostat. I've attached the spec sheet below. Can anybody advise if the existing heat mat will work with this Neostat...

Thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow and see what I can find out.

Excellent, I'm planning on making my Heatmiser wet UFH smart in the summer, so this will presumably hook into that nicely. Just done a bit if further reading and it's been suggested that swapping a thermostat for another might not be straight forward. Can anyone advise? Thanks everyone.

Thanks, I have Heatmiser elsewhere, so I'll take a look. So, can somebody just confirm that these are interchangeable with the electric UFH?

Can I just replace for any then? Any guidance as to what's a good one to go for?

It's under a tiled floor. I did unclip the case hoping to find a model number but nothing.

Hello, I moved in last year and I've always struggled programming this thermostat. Does anyone have any idea which model it is? I have a similar one in the house which is a Prowarm but this one's different. Thanks

I see this thread has sparked a bit of debate. So just to summarise for a non-electrician, I think what you're saying is.... I have no choice but to use 2 core as the switches don't support the use of an earth cable (I'm assuming this is because they are plastic and don't need one) and are...

Okay chaps, so what are we saying, don't use the two core switches?

I'm sure it'll be fine, I will be able to see the light bleed through the door, so can check/test periodically. Also, I could easily build a metal grill around it protecting it from any accidents.

Cheers, okay, I will give it some thought. My family can't be trusted not to catch fire to anything, trust me :cry:

I've removed the Steinel motion lights as they didn't work how I intended. I'm considering using a safety batten holder but slightly concerned that someone might rest something against the bulb. Will look to change for a bulkhead light. I'm assuming the wring will be the same.

Also, might have to look for a shade as I wouldn't want somebody putting something too close and causing a fire. Should I be looking at a bulkhead light. Bloody hell, I do like to complicate things.

Thanks for confirming. So is it flexible twin core cable I need or can somebody link to what's needed. Thanks.

If sniping off the earth isn't recommended, which cable do you advise? I can only see 1.5mm flexible cable.