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Can they just over sail into the cavity a bit? Or has someone specifically said the whole 125mm needs a solid base. I’d think given the doors are fixed at the sides and possibly the top, you should be ok…

2 sounds sensible, could roofer hack off just enough to fit the battens beforehand? Or he may be able to pop over and do it fairly quickly one the renders off without much disruption to the rendering, worth asking.

The AI bots need to add a date check, or preferably an exclude rule for diynot ;)

Agree on the screed, but having done both over the years the slab finishing method I described above I’d say is DIY’able, a decent S&C (or pumped) screed much less so!

As long as the main ground bearing slab is done right, then you can make up whatever on top of it. The dpm would need to fully enclose the insulation and floating floor though so might end up more hassle and it’s not normally done like that. When i did mine, which was about the same size as...

The chunkier lintels in garden rooms tend to be for top hung heavy bifold doors, which would have a span much wider than yours and would need to carry the weight of the doors, rather than just the support of the roof above the doors, which may be why there’s talk of steels/8x2s on YouTube. Full...

picture might help, but trying to visualise why you wouldn’t just span the whole thing anyway, and have that as part of the wall top plate. But in any case 7x2 (for the 1.4m span, anything else is kinda irrelevant) is very much more than ok. Might be too deep though depending on your ceiling...

I wouldn’t worry or attempt to fix the other end, unless you reckon it’s a leak which you might be able to check if the water meter’s outside, and turn the internal stopcock off and see if it moves. Highly unlikely though if it’s a continuous piece of mdpe. I’d just plug the top with a...

Can you tell me more about concrete cavity lintels?

I wouldn’t bother, unless there’s evidence of thermal/moisture bridging

Cavity closer (bought in lengths), which includes the vertical (or horizontal in the case of the underside of the window) dpc and foam insulation. Does the inner skin lintel actually need replacing?

That’d be more involved as you’d have to support both skins of masonry while doing it. Fair bit of redoing brickwork above afterwards too. Don’t forget weep vents etc

Expanding foam

Outer skin may have no lintel at all, and have always been supported by being sat on the window and tied to the inner skin. Belt and braces would be to fit a proper cavity lintel/cavity tray, or may get away with just an angle iron lintel on the outer. If you had access from outside you could...

Fwiw, looks like due to yours not being properly detailed at the top, water has just got behind it over time and blown it. Pretty sure once you start taking that top section off, a lot would come off before you hit anything sound. I’d just be up front and make it the buyers problem if you can’t...

Really hard to say tbh. If it was me (deliberately trying to cosmetic bodge) I’d gently take as much off as I could, leaving any bits I could get away with, then SBR it and patch it, but I do sand&cement rendering/know how to. Risk with yours is without touching it no one knows how much...

You’re not going to be able to falsify that. Any attempt to do it will still be easy pickings for the surveyor to flag and likely to end up worse and looking like you’re trying to hide it. I’d just be honest from day one, let them have that and say it’s priced accordingly for a repair, which you...

I think that’s going to be pretty tricky to get right. I’m thinking lapping the excess DPM up the outside of the wall and if needed extending it by taping more to it, might be your best bet. And protecting it from getting damaged. But that’s only going to alleviate ground level moisture and not...

How are you identifying the signs of it being installed from the outside? If late 90s it should have it when built rather than retro fitted?

Bottom left and right - inner skin’s already got a thermal/moisture break due to the cavity Top right - cut a groove and put a vertical dpc in. Above roof - retro fit a cavity tray. Personally I’ve built one without doing either of those, BC was fine, and zero issues as expected in a decade...