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Would either of these be recommended?

I’ve got one of these electric roller doors This section at the top is quite flimsy across the length and keeps rattling in the wind I noticed that it has some sort of Velcro sticky tape which I’m guessing has worn and hence the rattling. I’ve peeled it off. There is some space behind...

Thanks for the responses. Is a straight bit of timber and two clamps the best option - in lieu of a proper track saw?

Had one of these keep appearing in my social feeds. It clamps to the wood. Has anyone tried them and are they any good? I normally achieve this with a straight edge and clamps.

Definitely AC light. There’s a different light for continuity.

Yep, tested the fuse but if that was blown, would I get an AC light? In the end I changed the 3 pin plug and hey presto! We have voltage reading at those pins. All working now. One question, why do I still only get a AC light here and no voltage?

There no life on this all of a sudden. The led doesn’t light up and it doesn’t start. When I put my fluke T130 on these probes, it shows AC but no voltage display. There’s plenty of battery in the tester and I’ve done a self-test to confirm that the tester works. When I test the wires...

I’ve had a Texecom Premier Elite system for 10 years. It’s been very reliable but has the occasional false alarms. Recently, I’ve had 3-4 false alarms from the only two DT PIRs on my system. One is in the loft and the other in the garage. I inspected them today and the inside is completely...

That's the longest I could get these 100mm manrose pipes in. Are longer lengths available? Also, what rubber couplers do you recommend for these 100mm pipes?

My setup is like this. I used a manrose coupler and duct tape on the joint but recently noticed that this leaks... Th grey pipe is a manrose round duct. Should I use one of those rubber boots with jubilee clip here?

It’s a gas pipe. It comes up in a cupboard where it’s open and then enters the boiler cupboard upstairs where it is open too. I assume that means that I can box it up here? I like the coving idea and boxing up to the top. I just have that section in the side that will still look odd.

I did consider extending the ceiling by boxing the whole lot. The ceiling would be extended at the same level and then straight up. I could then fit the coving to this section, as you are suggesting. However, to the right the pipe goes into the slope of the stairs. It pierces through the bottom...

Another thought on this. Can I use a Recip saw (with metal blade) to cut out the top? Is that a safe option? Freaked out slightly by the earlier comments on the safety of a grinder.

I want to box it in, in a way that looks tidy. It measures 7.5 cm to the top of the pipe, from the wall. I thought I would need to batten and MDF it...

Can I get some suggestions on how I should box this pipe up please? Thanks in advance.

I’ve read lots of good stuff about the Thomas Dudley kit. Do you guys use that and recommend it in this situation?

But I’m not changing anything at the tap end. This piece will be dangling under the basin but connected to the tap as it was. Are they normally prone to leaking as I’m not increasing that risk?

Sorry which area do I check for future leaks?

Ah, I get it now. Can I leave this bit (circled in black) hanging under the sink and fit a normal push waste? Won’t need to silicone the tap hole then, if I’ve understood correctly.

Oh wow. Thanks @stevie888. I can see through the hole at the top that it’s largely empty but it still has some remains of oil in the barrel. Is this dangerous too? I have a bolster and hammer. Will that go through the top? Also, is it still safe to drill the holes at the bottom of the barrel...