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I agree and just in case you weren't aware - you only need to turn one valve off to stop the flow through the radiator.

Seems very thorough honestly. I'd say you have 3 options. 1. Accept the quote and live with your taps being pumped, what are your reservations with this? 2. Ask the plumber to find a solution for just the bath and the shower, this will involve a new pipe being run from cylinder to bathroom...

Tap will wedge itself against the tile eventually

That's right yes. You want a single channel receiver (heating control only) as replacement since you have a combi.

The best bodge I can think of would be to route 10mm out of the board for the pipes, shim either side of the pipes and fix board with shim through the steel with metal self tappers (pilot drill a 4mm hole first though, the steel is thick even at the edges).

I'd assume so, it may have to be the generation before the latest one as I mentioned. That's the world we live in

That is the total energy I suspect, so includes storage heaters etc.

As @CountryFan suggests, the backplate is likely the same as some of the newer hive receivers, so it could be a case of popping the front off the old one and slotting the new one on. Isolate the power before doing this though. It's worth pointing out that the newest single channel receivers have...

What are you trying to do? The bigger the pipe the less fall required, generally.

No, the ROOM STAT terminal in the wiring centre. Top and bottom screws

No, remove wires out of room stat, leave programmer wires where they are. Do as countryfan suggests and add a link wire between 1 and 3 on the room stat. (where yellow and red are currently)

Ok, what I would do is replace your programmer with the hive receiver. It needs to be a dual channel receiver which from the screwfix picture looks like it is. Wiring as follows : Red - Live Blue - Neutral Green yellow - Earth Orange - 1 Yellow - 3 White - 4 Then inside your wiring centre...

This is for controlling the heating and hot water via the hive. With your current setup, your thermostat calls for heat but the hot water timings will be done via your programmer. If you want to have that control via the hive, it's going to be a little bit more complicated and we'll need the...

That would be to bypass the room stat entirely, he wants to use the hive as his new stat.

Good find, that's absolutely horrendous numbering. 1, earth, 2, 3? You should be able to replace your existing wall thermostat with the hive hub, or you could disconnect the connections at the wiring centre and place the hub near your centre (it talks wirelessly with the thermostat anyway)...

I'm not convinced, it says "if room stat not used, link 1 and 3". 2 or 3 is an earth core so, so if we'd have to assume blue is switched live unless they've wired it up with the earth. Really need to see the wiring in your existing room stat.

That's a nice tidy wiring centre. It will be the room stat terminals on the left, your hive hub will need a neutral and I can't see from the picture what each of those cores are labelled as - take a clearer picture. According to the pcb the inside of the lid you took off has instructions...

I think you're confusing yourself. Either of these options the plumber intends to fit by the hot water cylinder, therefore presumably boosting the hot water main as a whole. If you only want the pressure to the shower/bath boosted, then it pretty much needs to be an under bath pump, no? Now, if...

It's not a bath and shower at the same time though is it

Think the pumps been run dry? Maybe worth going smaller to reduce the water demand, ct50 looks like the smallest they do. Take it it's twin pump (hot and cold). 1.5 bar is still plenty if it's sited under the bath