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Checking circuits for overload is simple enough with a multimeter. After 15 secs running, I would be looking first at the solenoid coil. If that has shorted, then it will take the box out.

This is an oil boiler. ^^^^^^^^

To change your cartridge, isolate the flow and return valves, release the pressure in the boiler, and cover any vulnerable compents like the burner control box from any residual drips. The head twists off the body, and your new cartridge should have a spanner to unscrew the cartridge ...

Once you have ensured that the burner is free, and that the oil pump is not stiff, consult the Riello guide, and also google Worcester oil burner hard reset. Personally I think it is time to consult an experienced technician.

I meant the one on the extreme right on the pipe that comes down from the pressure reducing valve which I take to be the cold inlet. That looks on a level below the immersion heater.

Glad you found it. It's a shame you did not notice that the burner did not start at the first switch on. I never like coincidences but this obviously was one and after your work it is a distraction to fault finding. At least you have found out how to bleed the oil line:LOL:

If you have attempted more than 5 resets, the control will lock out and the M.I's suggest a call to worcester , or an engineer. Have you by any chance turned off the oil supply and failed to turn it back on again? When you first restarted, did the burner motor run?

What is the drain to the right of the motorised valve adjacent to the pump?

If you don't want to wait for your water, you could always fit a DHW circulator but after paying for it and the attendant fitting costs, you still won't be able to quantify the cost. Look for the positives. Whilst waiting you will have plenty of time to think about another pointless post on the...

The correct Riello screwis tapered into the extension. The washer that is now being held by it is a codge someone has fitted up. See Exedon post above.

In terms of volume yes, but i'm unsure of the full effect of higher fuel pressure of almost 50% . Your first tests were not so far away from the M.I's and suggest that the head setting is a little too open to reduce the CO, but even then your results are within the "less than 100 PPM". i've...

With the diffuser in a mid position and the air setting with 0-1 smoke you should have CO2 at somewhere round 11%. , a small adjustment to increase will probably increase CO anda reduction will decrease it, but if CO2 rises too far, you need to increase the air setting. It is a patience testing...

I used to service one of these, on 28 sec oil. From memory CO2 was always 11%-12% and CO approx 50-70ppm. the M.I.'s specified <100. I used to set pump at 140 but can't remember head setting. If you set to about 2-3 and adjust air to eliminate smoke, using the analyser you can alter the...

You may find that before fitting one they will insist on a powerflush at another £500 or so;)

I would look at replacing with an oil Aga thermostat. If the current knob will not fit the shaft, that is easily rectified.

If it works, don't fix it.

If the fault didn't follow the actuator, then the problem is with wiring. You mentioned you have changed the programmer; from what to what? As the actuators are motor open/motor close, opening manually will be overidden by the controls. In the heating mode, follow the current path through the...

As I see it, the top connedtion is a switched from your room thermostat the 2nd one is neutral, the third is a switched to boiler and pump whilsthe bottom is a permanent live. If that is how it is wired, then I would be inclined to suspect the actuator. The only other complication that may...

Nothing to do and all day to do it is what I see. All this minute monitoring of temperature hysteris with parameters in the 0.1C is irrelevant in the scheme of things. One needs to look only at the general picture of comfort which takes in more factors, some indefinable.

Probably a flue sampling point. They often have a spring loaded stud to seal them but if that has rotted then someone probably just used a bolt to 'seal' it. The part below would replace it...