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one more on this please: should I use a multi cutter or jigsaw to cut out the socket sections?

There's plenty of videos where people have been using the poly top pins in the recesses to hang this as soffit. I was thinking I could do the same? or use screws with white caps.

Let me start with, I own a lock-out kit and 2 probe tester. I use these for safe isolation. Curious - if a fitting has a FCU or there is a light fitting with a single switch cable, can you isolate here whilst someone keeps a look out? Is there inherently something in a light switch or a FCU...

Didn't realise until I started checking last night. I would have preferred a repair and not just for economic reasons but t needs to make some economic sense. Struggling in this instance.

Good point @ebee. The cut-out was going to cost around £15 and the shower cost me just over £40. It's a shame as it's not great for the environment but I am running the risk that it may not be the cut-out. There may be additional faults.

Yes cold water regardless of where the shower dial is. If it’s turned to hot, the pressured reduces ( like it did when. It worked) but the water is still cold. Does it still point to thermal cut out?

I’ve got a triton cara 8.5 kw shower that’s stopped providing hot water. It has a power supply and cables are well connected. I notice that there is no continuity between the screws I have circled in yellow. Is this likely to be the issue?

Thanks for the responses guys. Helpful as always. As @flameport has suggested, it needs to be connected into the circuit board.

The battery is in its slot (for both fittings) but may be there is a plastic film or something near the ends…

I would expect that to light up straight away but that’s not the case. It hasn’t come on even after 3 days. Am I doing something wrong?

I have one of these and supplied it with a permanent live and neutral. I have removed the small wire between L and SL. Nothing lights up - not even the led indicator. I have waited 3 days, thinking it may be down to charging, still no led indicator. When cut the power, the light doesn't...

Ah I get it. Thanks for that @pete01

Sorry @pete01, I don't follow. With the existing light switch and also with the new socket directly to the left of the current socket, isn't the existing socket (in its covered state) in a safe zone? No one should be drilling here as it's in line with both the new socket (horizontally) and the...

Aren't they in zone for the new socket that I am fitting to the left of this, behind the cabinet. Also, it's directly below the light switch so no one should be drilling here anyhow?

Thanks. Did consider that but the cables are coming up from a concrete floor.

I'd be grateful if someone can suggest a method that allows me to cover up the existing socket as part of this ring extension please. I can place the wagos inside a wago box if that is recommended.

ah, someone else suggested that they placed the socket on top of the slats and used longer screws to reach the existing back box. They then placed some plastic trunking plastic strip above and below the inners of the socket to protect someone from touching it. Is that what you were thinking of?

I plan to have the soffit boards running horizontally and can fix them to 9mm batons, spaced ever 400. Same as the studs for the wall? I am unclear on the role of silicon here. Can you please clarify. I assumed that the soffit boards will be screwed into the aforementioned battens (on the upper...

Your approach is very clear to me now. When you say no need to do any different with my method. Is that with the use of the galvanised extender boxes?

Thanks for your responses @SUNRAY. I can follow what you did. In my situation, I could use your method or alternatively, the galvanised extension boxes as I think it will give me the correct depth. The reason, I am interested in the cut PB box approach is that, I don't have to be too precise...