Sockets on acoustic wall panel

[Jupiter01]

I didn't describe that well.

I measured the distance from the surface of the board to the metal backbox and marked that distance on the side of the PB box then cut off at that mark, removing the back of the PB box and creating a sleeve

View attachment 405788

Ah got it!
If the panels are 21mm, would t I end up cutting some of the lug on the PB box too? In my situation, do you think the galvanised extension boxes would work better?

 

[pete01]

How did you deal with that socket? Looks great

Just fitted a normal back box and used longer screws, I used a piece of trunking lid and sprayed it black and pinned it top and bottom....if you dont you can touch the terminals.

But I like Sunrays way better, I'll do that next time.

 

[Jupiter01]

And you need to position the PB box so that the lugs can tighten on to a slat? And therefore need to cut the foam from behind the slats where the lugs will tighten on to?

Hope you follow my poor explanation here.

 

[pete01]

Put a metal back box on top of the panels mark with a pencil and cut out with a multitool

 

[SUNRAY]

And you need to position the PB box so that the lugs can tighten on to a slat? And therefore need to cut the foam from behind the slats where the lugs will tighten on to?

Hope you follow my poor explanation here.

And you need to position the PB box so that the lugs can tighten on to a slat? And therefore need to cut the foam from behind the slats where the lugs will tighten on to?

Hope you follow my poor explanation here.

In my case the wall was not very flat so glueing the board in place meant the existing back box became crooked

or/and the box was set badly so the box I cut was certainly not parallel

I simply used the long screws which had already been fitted

 

[aveatry]

I fitted mine because I like the look

View attachment 405789

Right so just a silly fashion thing and a dust magnet with no use then

 

[jj4091]

I fitted mine because I like the look

View attachment 405789

Wouldn't it have been easier with srtiped wall paper

 

[pete01]

Right so just a silly fashion thing and a dust magnet with no use then

Yes im very fashionable, dust doesnt worry me as I clean my house regularly

 

[pete01]

Wouldn't it have been easier with srtiped wall paper

Probably.....but I also do a lot of jigsaw puzzles and it would be easier not to

 

[Jupiter01]

In my case the wall was not very flat so glueing the board in place meant the existing back box became crookedView attachment 405795or/and the box was set badly so the box I cut was certainly not parallel

I simply used the long screws which had already been fittedView attachment 405796

Thanks for your responses @SUNRAY. I can follow what you did.
In my situation, I could use your method or alternatively, the galvanised extension boxes as I think it will give me the correct depth. The reason, I am interested in the cut PB box approach is that, I don't have to be too precise with my cut in the panels. As long as the cable in the existing galvanised box can be fed through to the cut PB box, we are good, as I understand it. This means that I don't need to line my cut exactly with the galvanised box (and the extension or PB box that screws into it). Hope that makes sense.

If there is merit in what I am explaining above, the cut PB box may be preferable and I assume that it will need to clamp onto slats on bot ends. Again the above method will give me some flexibility so I can move to make this the case. I just don't know how the lugs will work if I reduce this to 21mm depth. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

 

[aveatry]

Yes im very fashionable, dust doesnt worry me as I clean my house regularly

I never have to hover my wallpaper or painted walls

 

[SUNRAY]

Thanks for your responses @SUNRAY. I can follow what you did.
In my situation, I could use your method or alternatively, the galvanised extension boxes as I think it will give me the correct depth. The reason, I am interested in the cut PB box approach is that, I don't have to be too precise with my cut in the panels. As long as the cable in the existing galvanised box can be fed through to the cut PB box, we are good, as I understand it. This means that I don't need to line my cut exactly with the galvanised box (and the extension or PB box that screws into it). Hope that makes sense.

If there is merit in what I am explaining above, the cut PB box may be preferable and I assume that it will need to clamp onto slats on bot ends. Again the above method will give me some flexibility so I can move to make this the case. I just don't know how the lugs will work if I reduce this to 21mm depth. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

On the one I did the clamps were removed leaving the PB box completely floating and only secured by the long screws through the face plate.
TBH seeing your finished socket and the description of your method I'd say no need to do anything different.

 

[Jupiter01]

On the one I did the clamps were removed leaving the PB box completely floating and only secured by the long screws through the face plate.
TBH seeing your finished socket and the description of your method I'd say no need to do anything different.

Your approach is very clear to me now.
When you say no need to do any different with my method. Is that with the use of the galvanised extender boxes?

 

[SUNRAY]

Your approach is very clear to me now.
When you say no need to do any different with my method. Is that with the use of the galvanised extender boxes?

I thought I'd read you fashioned something out of plastic.

 

[Jupiter01]

I thought I'd read you fashioned something out of plastic.

ah, someone else suggested that they placed the socket on top of the slats and used longer screws to reach the existing back box. They then placed some plastic trunking plastic strip above and below the inners of the socket to protect someone from touching it. Is that what you were thinking of?