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Local handyman - 1/2 to 1 hour tops. How much can it be!

Nicely done!

...except the one where you are picking up an existing waste above the floor, and there is no simple route to create a new waste outlet below. Yes, if I was designing new, I'd go for a flush tray too, but practicality on the ones I have done has meant a riser has been the best option. Thinks:-...

Each to their own. I prefer the tray on a riser with accessible plumbing, ever since I had a tray (not one I'd put in, but one in a new house) split around the waste area. What a PITA that was to put right because the plumbing was buried...

I'm not. All I can offer is the science behind condensation and humidity that was part of my Merchant Navy training back in the day, and my own personal experience working and renovating a couple of 100+ year old houses and noting what has been successful and what not, and trying to work out the...

I would not pay the other builder particularly quickly. Get photographic evidence, and for now just play hard to get, or if you want to, withhold a sum suitable to pay the other team for the remedial work. Problem is without formally giving builder #1 a chance to rectify, you're on slightly...

It will, and is why fires draw better when it's windy. The same force draws warm room air up a chimney if it's not in use........

have to say with showers there's a lot of form over function. IMHO it's hard to beat a quality tray like "just trays" mounted on a riser so plumbing under is accessible with a decent trap with an easily removable core so you can clean the hair out when you are in the shower and realise it isn't...

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My 2p on this is in order from best to worst 1)Vented at the top, externally vented at the bottom - air flow with virtually zero condensation risk in all conditions 2)Vented at the top, not vented at the bottom. The open top will still allow evaporation of any dampness in the chimney caused by...

@chirpychippy well spotted!

You could just sit on your hands and say " no money until the voids behind that thin mortar are sorted". Let him kick and scream. You have the whip hand. As soon as you pay, he's gone.

You can do anything that works. The fundamental fact is that nice warm fairly humid room air at ~20-22 degrees and 50-60% relative humidity will start condensing to liquid water at around 12 degrees. If the air coming in from outside is say 14 degrees and 80% humidity because that's the...

Once you've made sure the chimneys are capped with vented cowls (if they're not, a lot of water will be coming in - think how much rain accumulates in a bucket left outside) and then read this from a damp specialist company https://www.tracebasementsystems.co.uk/post/damp-chimney-breasts...

White cable is readily available https://www.screwfix.com/p/prysmian-6242bh-white-2-5mm-lszh-twin-earth-cable-100m-drum/74493 but is that a choc block I see in picture #7? I'll leave it to the sparkies to say whether that's permitted or not. Having viewed the video, I would make sure that...

Toilets only have a few fixings. Likewise vanities. Prob easier to lift them, tuck new floor under and refit

Since both are remedied for next to b all and a bit of time with a hammer and some nails, I wouldn't fret either way. I agree CYA

If it was me I'd screw it from behind to a temporary block to make it easier to handle and give something to clamp to, rough it on the bandsaw with the table angled and finish off with a hand plane. If you don't have a band saw, you could use a hand saw, or a power planer to rough it out, but a...

I didn't tile over it, so can't say, all I can say is that I would use it for any flooring application where there is a possibility of damp and/or you are building exposed to weather. Having used it, I'm very impressed.

Unless you are intending your flooring to be part of your waterproof barrier, the product I linked IMHO will be fine. I'd certainly use it in a wetroom. Last time I used it for a floor on a build it was exposed to the weather for 2 weeks before the roof went on with water pooling on it. No...