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Push the steam wand down further into the milk, you'll get a warmer milk. Warm the cup with warm water whilst you do your work of art. After texturing the milk, tap the jug on the worktop to get rid of any air bubbles. As a side note, I find when the coffee is over extracted it tastes bitter...

I can vouch for the Mirka, great sander, when connected to hoover, only need a light sand, as the abranet can be quite severe if you are heavy handed.

Lots of garages are single skin (with piers) and have concrete tiled roofs, as a rough rule, these are 50Kg per m² so your covering will be fine.

Not so long back, I fitted an under mount sink into quartz worktop, months on, there is no issues so far. I used this type of thing: Undermount sink brackets And I used this to glue the brackets to underside of the worktop: Araldite Easy peasy. Good luck.

I think that jug is a bit large for one drink, if you are making two, it’s ok. Latte art is easier with a longer wand, so is trickier with the sage. I’ve never bothered with the temp gauge, if the jug bottom is getting too hot to touch, then your are done.

What size jug are you using, I don’t find the wand a problem if you are using a smaller metal jug… I don’t like using a mug. The sage can produce good micro foam, but it takes practise. As Notch had said, Rave coffee is good, fresh beans make a difference, and grind when you need them, not...

I'm not a fan of butting it up, as it's another join. There are things called splice plates, don't solely rely on this. If there is a decent stub of old joist, can't you sister to said stub on the otherside away from wall? Is is cavity wall or solid brick? I ask as you might be able to enlarge...

What length are we talking? What about sistering the joist? think that's what I'd look at. Chop away the rotten bit and place the new joist to the side of the old one (what's left of it) and allow a good overlap. Use timber similar size to original, M12 bolts through old and sister piece...

Photos please(y)

It's quite a job lowering the floor, I did the entire ground floor of my house, binning a couple of old concrete floors. It is a lot of shovel work! Yes it's worth the effort, but even insulated floors may still feel cold if there is no heating on and your have ceramic tiles for example...

Fair point. Surely after 6 years it would be dry?

Wondering if it's condensation, the bottom of the B&B floor could be colder/more vapour and possibly there is no oversite. Lack of ventilation could also contribute. Can you take some pics of the outside wall please. Do you know (doubt it) how much space there is from bottom of B&B floor to...

No, a vertical DPC is cut into the cavity in-between your wall starter not like an expansion joint. Some cut a 50mm sliver all the way down to house DPC, some just cut a slit with grinder and slide in the DPC.

My mates council are requesting 100mm in-between and 50/60mm underneath + plasterboard there are different figures for 600 or 450 centres! Are they suggesting 100mm underneath only?

Is that damp/moisture on the slab on post #17? (top right of post) If so, I'm wondering if it's not a block & beam floor, but just sat on the earth. Really the DPM could have done with being under the slab. The surface is very bumpy and it can easily puncture the DPM. The slits in the render...

That looks more than 1mm, I don't think I'd be happy with that. If you run a spirit level over a blank tile, is the tile flat? wedges look OK at the edges, but not in the middle of the tile. Tiler should have spotted this. You could mix a small amount of grout up and see what it's like when...

Would be better to post a picture. at 0.76mm I think when the grout goes down you won't notice it... that said, depends on the tiles... must have been a fun night with your credit card :LOL: Can't see you chipping any tiles once they are grouted.

On the photo with the art on the wall, to the right there is a line in plasterwork, looks like something was filled in... was there a fireplace there that's been boarded up? I see there is no chimney stack, has this been removed? These are common places for damp spots due to not ventilating the...

So it's a floating floor? Working from top down. Chipboard Celotex DPM Lumpy screed? If correct, I'd be erring to bridged brickwork as damp perpetrator.

I've got a quartz island, that I finished the edges myself, including the rounded corners. I used a small diamond blade to make initial cuts, then used a combination of sanding disc on and angle grinder and Mirka hand sander. I then used some diamond polishing discs on my drill, starting at...