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Well even after running the stove for a month, the chimney breast feeling warmish and dry it feels especially damp this morning. The dehumidifier showed 90% when I just turned it on. Its so depressing after all the time, effort and money thrown at this problem (new stove, chimney swept...

No cracks et. I just think the pipe wasn't perhaps flush with the rubber washer. It all works now.

Update - Disaster - After fitting it all back together exactly as before, water cascades from the whole of bottom of the shower like a waterfall. I the refitted making sure everything was extra tight and it works. No idea why it leaked so badly after the first attempt

Managed to take out the pipe to fit a new seal. I must say the old one doesn't look to have been breached.

Ok, we have the log burner installed with metal liner, a more durable high grade. All chimney pots are now capped which were previously open (one even had no pot for years with gaping hole until replaced a few years ago) I Wass told by the guy fitting the flue on his cherry picker that he has...

I think patch it now for getting through Autumn Winter and in Spring take glass out and start again with sealant.

Good idea. Thanks.

Just taken one of the ledges off and it's pretty wet. The nails are rusty so going to pull them out, treat with Ronseal wet wood rot, paint and replace ledge a bit lower. The photo with the ledge in my hand is the repair I made only this Summer with Ronseal and wood filler. It clearly isn't...

Taking the putty out would be a monumental task and sealing the bottom difficult also. I have used sealent in the past and water still got in. I could paint the putty with the same Dulux weathwrseal to fill the gaps.

I can assure you there is absolutely no water running down from the glass anywhere inside. No traces as completely dry but it seeps in as you can see. Even outside I can't see any evidence and it's only this one area out of 4 panes. So frustrating. Here is a better shot of the exterior taken 5...

Thanks John but I can't see any evidence of it running down from anywhere. When I had perspex just sitting on the wood with tacks holding it on (no sealant) I had no issues with capillary action. It seems installing glass and putty has caused so many problems.

I absolutely can't fathom how this water is getting into my potting shed. The outside is sound with no visible way water can get in. I have felt underneath the bench and can't feel any water of moisture. I know the putty in the glass is a bit poor (my bad) BUT from the inside there are no signs...

Time and time again I have sanded, filled and painted this door crack in the panel of our mahogany wooden door and yet again is has reappeared after just a month. I have used the best paints Fortress trade undercoat and primer (outside and indoor) , Dulux Weathershield and the filler is...

There you go :)

Again there are a few ways to clean up spills other than mopping the floor. We also have an electric squeegee.

The lvt flooring in our bathroom will be moped but kitchen will be swept and cleaned with cloth. There are always other ways of doing things. :)

Well yes if there are no constant drips for a period of time. The bathroom will be much wetter obviously.

I agree. It's not quite as bad at the moment as I have lifted the rear a bit more but it does need doing. I have contacted the manufacturer.

Well that has told me :rolleyes: Oak flooring is suitable for all rooms except bathroom. Kitchen sink is designed by Howdens to overhang. The work surface isn't real wood. The drainer does have a capillary groove but not enough overhang for the width of the sink.