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Where is the wall plate?

Somewhere after camembert, but before Wensleydale, yes. ;)

Also, if you have wooden suspended floors the air bricks need unblocking to preserve the life of the timbers, aside from what cosmetic signs of damp exist on the interior walls. Air is your friend!

We are certainly at the limits of my knowledge. But with the same problem (though with poured concrete rather than bricks) I cut about 1' from the wall and removed the concrete. Exposed the old dpc. Replaced the air bricks that were about 1/2 covered. Filled with membrane and chunky washed...

Looks to me as though they have tried to mitigate the damage of raising ground level by creating a a bitumen coated plinth that will shed water. Water that hits it from splashing on the ground will indeed be shed, but it will of course also draw moisture from the ground. I am presuming location...

Wouldn't worry about it. You might find it cracks but that would likely mean you'd need to go over it again. Same can happen if substrate was too dry and sucked the moisture out too fast. So I wet down the substrate quite heavily, and make a thick mix. If it's too runny to stay put it's no good...

So set a lower than exit lowest point with weep hole, then install as normal.

Kitchen extractor comes out under/into lean to shelter. Straight into 'clothes drying zone'. Solution is to extend the ducting up and along the wall to the side of the lean-to roof and out through the feather edge siding.. In winter it's visibly laden with steam/moisture Won't the ducting...

Not meaning the small 1" white pipe that runs from combi out into the gulley, but the water that drips from the flue exhaust..... Is it pure? Or acidic... Reason being I had a plume kit fitted and am wondering if the water that drips off is going to affect the polycarbonate roof that the plume...

That's a great idea. Thanks. Reckon I can get a cheap board of ply and rip it into strips.

:LOL: Thanks.... Generally I have a 'how will this go wrong now ?' approach... I have folded sections already but just can't see it laying flat to the wall without a few small taps ..... That will make it look instantly like the surface of the moon...

Ignore lower line. I cut the first chase a bit low and badly. .. When I dress/beat the lead drop down over the pebble dash, won't it end up looking like woodchip paper - all stippled from stones in the wall? I haven't found an example of anyone doing this anywhere? The drop always looks flat...

Thanks. Staying in though.

Everything is shut. Need to move project on.. don't want to skip oiling the lead. Any ideas on next best thing.... please? Leaving aside some of the past bizarre posts on what to 'apply'....

Good point. It's not supposed to be plain sailing. Where's the fun in that?!

Maybe. But if it doesn't, I should add, again, that a sample of one just not a safe method make, and that I was kidding when I mentioned removing the guard. Never remove the guard.

Oh and if you put a straight edge to the pebble dash you have about 1 1/4" slit.

If you say so... The surface isn't very friendly to the touch! Was wondering about this point you might advise on.... Lead working on YouTube is not like real life. It dents easy! Once I have clipped the lead in place, I would were it brick or smooth render, beat the drop tight to the wall to...

not sure if you mean the whole job, or just the two chases. Prob don't look that diff from there. But the bottom of upper (2nd) chase is flat and straight while the other made with two meandering slits was a dog's dinner. Perhaps it would have worked out fine but like most things it's not...

Goggles, mask, ears, gloves.... Scarf wrapped around my neck and tucked into jacket. As pic it was possible to do up the spindle nut Nat West tight and there was still some thread peeping. I figured that catastrophic failure would need heat or twisting. It never got even warm. That said the...