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I hadn't thought it would have been enough water/long enough for the joists to rot, but obviously I'm now even more concerned about that.

A few months ago I discovered a leaking isolation joint under my bath, that had been slowly dripping for many months. The leak was fixed immediately, but since then there has been a smell of damp/mould that comes and goes. The leak soaked through the floorboards and came through the ceiling...

The plumber fitted the pipe. The pipe leaked not long after a year, and it was in a confined space that could not have been tampered with. It really is that simple.

Yes of course I do. However, I am prepared to put my faith in the justice system and I will have to take it on the chin if they rule against me. Before I get to that point though, I just wanted to know others opinions of the plumbers statement about the weather causing the leak.

Why should I use my insurance and therefore pay my excess and have my premium go up when it is the fault of the plumber? Also there is a limit to what I can claim on my insurance, i.e. the emergency plumber would not be completely covered. Also, why should it matter if I have that evidence or...

Some more advice please, if you don't mind... We are now taking the plumber to court over the incorrectly fitted joint, to recover costs incurred for emergency plumbing work, and restoration of damaged and discoloured plasterboards and ceiling. We believe the joint had been leaking slowly...

Anyone else?

Very difficult :/ If there is insulation, will it dry out by itself, and will it go moldy? Any idea why the bath/shower is causing the damp smell?

To be honest the wood right under where the leak was seems dry now (I think - I will check when home). However the tiled floor starts right next to this, and so I can't check if it is wet under there. One thing I have noticed though, I am sure the floor has started creaking when it didn't...

6 weeks ago I had water dripping down into my dining room, which it turned out was due to a leaking plumbing joint under the bath that had been badly installed 18 months previously (when I had a shower fitted). The joint was corrected that same day, and to the best of my knowledge there are no...

That's great, thanks for helping

I think this is the problem, ferrules weren't used. The Latent Defect law is interesting - does this definitely apply here?

OK, so this all came to a head on Friday when more wet patches appeared, and then water started dripping down the light and into the centre of the room! Called out an emergency plumber and we isolated the problem to a slow leak in a connection from the bath to the shower that was installed 18...

That's interesting, I think I'll stick with thunderbolts for now then :) I will try chem anchors too though, they sound even stronger to be honest. I've been using thunderbolts on another project too and they certainly are better than I was expecting. Although i stupidly didn't drill quite...

Sorry, one more question too. When I fixing posts that aren't close to the edge, should I use expanding anchor bolts then instead?

OK thanks. I would prefer to avoid the post holders I have to say. If I went for chemical anchors, would that be more possible, would you say? With chem anchors, do i just drill a hole the size of the threaded rod, inject resin, and then put the rod in and leave to set?

I've been given some thunderbolts so price isn't an issue there, I'd only be tempted to change to chemical anchor if you think thunderbolts won't be strong enough? Post holder does sound good in that it would add a lot of strength, but how hard would it be to cut the base flush on one side? I...

Actually, I might have misled on the size anyway, as the drill size was 16 mm, but the bolt itself is 10 mm I think

I'm less keen to use postholders on the ground as a) it will look less nice, and b) it will mean the posts are not flush with the side Yes looking back M16 anchorbolts were OTT, but then they were suggested to me and they were the only size that had a long enough bolt to pass through the...

Cheers, what are good quality PZ2 and PH2 bits as those are the ones I use the most and would use in the impact driver.