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With proper attention to detail the vents should have been set higher to suit the raised access: this is what telescpoic vents are for.

This might be a case for a judicious bodge. How about simply sealing the crack insitu?

Ah, my bad: not looking closely enough. I still think you have to alter the bracket as (even if there was meat there to do it which I doubt) you'd need a lathe to reduce the bar. I'd see if you can't cutthe brackdet in 4 and reassemble with spacers: I don't think you'd need to alter the bore...

Don't use a grinder. We had a guy killed on site many years ago (not my job thankfully) doing just this when the allegedly cleaned out barrel exploded. The first 300 plus were fine but it only needed one. For a one off a sharp bolster is the best too; as it automatically dresses the sharp edge...

Your suggestion has merit but will need proper design: if you have trees then the depth may well be need to be > 1m deep. PCC litels would be your best bet as steels would need to be encased in concrete.

Washers between the bearing and housing is all you need. should be simple.

Wee grey Ferguson tractor then mk 1 Cortina

A pickaxe is a quick way to punch the holes: you don't need to be subtle.

I think it looks much worse than it is due to the loss of the pointing which hasn't been raked out deep enough.

I'd look at scaffold boards if I was doing the job: plenty stromg enough and less likely to be affected by the inevitable splashes.

Only you can decide if that kerb appeal is worth £3k. The flip side of the argument is you have an obvious new roof compared to neighbouring properties which could add value.

This thread is getting quite entertaining! I must say that I have always viewed modification as deliberately altering or adding something for a specific reason, not simply replacing like for like. You here of plenty of instances where oem and pattern parts are absolutely identical even down to...

Drawings should ALWAYS be dimensioned. Scaling is not a good idea and can lead to errors

If the batten on the left is well screwed to the wall then construction adhesive would hold it down to the wall top. I wouldn't want to rely on adhesive alone for the batten If you wanted the support to be less visible then a length of steel angle would do you.

Why do you assume you're not going to crack the nuts with it: forces the assumption that it's inherently weak. My spannering days are largely behind me but this doesn't sound like a must have.

I did just what you suggest: worked just fine, You need an exterior grade adhesive obviously.

How far do you want to extend? This would be helpful to answer. You probably need to move the chamber left to the boundary, run forward then you'll need 2 new chambers to get back into line. This should work unless the existing drain is tight on fall. You will have to submit information to...

The entire addition would be assessed against PD criteria. Kitchen or bedroom?? You run the risk of creating a bit of a lash up TBH. Do the jpb properly: you might wind up devaluing the place.

Safe but lazy TBH.

They sound like conventional concrete rather than Celcon type ligtweight so I would expect at least 7N. Why do you need to know?