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Are there no spares lurking anywhere. I leave any spares I have under kitchen cabinets or behind bath panels

If the roofers thought there was any risk then I'll bet they would have painted you a black picture to get extra work sorting it out.

You can treat the rust and use an epoxy repair mortar. RE Harry's point: concrete is chemically alkaline so steel only rusts when moisture gets to it hence the importance of adequate cover, proper compaction and where applicable properly formed construction joints.

Drat!! Corrected: thanks Robin

I'm a touch confused here. You are right to say you need an SE, but who has specified the 1m pads at this point? Are they the right size? A lot depends on how deep you have to go, what the structure on top is like and what structures adjoin the boundary. Your SE will (hopefully) look at...

This is a danger of split responsibility in design and a cautionary note to not start stuff until the design is complete and BC approved. BUT perfectly common to put beams onto Celcons. The allowable working bearing stress will be 1N/sqmm which doesn't sound a lot but you get an awful lot of...

3ft out for 2ft up will give you a 33degree slope. That will be pretty stable so I wouldn't worry. Get it well grassed: the roots will bind the surface together and stop water erosion. Not clear what you mean by small hill though.

If they have value to you then it doesn't matter what the value to anyone else is. Cast iron welding is tricky especially with this kind of thing which isn't likely to be high grade material. I think brazing rather than welding might be more successful. The best person would be an old school...

I wavered for years about getting one only being diy but a fiull house refurb prompted me to get a roughneck from Toolstation. The only mistake was not getting one years ago. I probably use <1/3 of the cans I did before, and that's foaming all sorts of bits I wouldn't have bothered with before...

I'd go with scaffold boards and not bother with the rubber so the wood can dry out

If you're really concerned about flatness then you can always use a bit of straight timber as a guide when you're raking. Take your time now rather than when gthe grass is growing: you'll probably go through several cycles of the gardener's shuffle and the rake before you're happy Don't get too...

Compact the stuff: you're not going to hurt a clay pipe unless you put the plate right on top of it.

Doesn't Andy have advice on what's good?

Exterior construction adhesive is easiest by a country mile, Then rub a bit of sand and cement into the cracks to mask.

I bet you're glad you asked OP!! My threehapenceworth: I'm big on if it ain't broke............and I'm seeing a roof that has clearly had some remedials done along the way but nothing looks bad now. Absence of felt isn't an issue as the roof can breathe better. Thousands of roofs don't have any...

That's as may be but 50 between 100 rafters and 100 over will give better U value if you flog through the calcs

I can't agree Tony. Broadly speaking the more iinsulation goes between the rafters the greater the overall thickness needed to attain the reqiuired U value. Greater cost of wood, with more effort to install then more faffing around cutting strips of insulation.

Not relevant to OP but worth noting that many suppliers do 7foot panels: handy to get over a potential small end gap or an obstructed post location.

You'll generally find better prices at a decent timber yard. Eg recent purchase for SWMBO of simple rectangular section for her latest project. £7 plus in B&Q a tad over £5 at yard (small local but they stock Cellotex and plasterboard as well as wood and deliver free) B&Q do have a wider range...

Tha to me is the answer: the supplier of the new tiles won't guarentee the joint so you are at risk. This needs sorted now