Search results

It might be possible to drain the part down, clean the area till bright, flux it, warm it (carefully!) and apply solder. I did a rad with a very small leak that way about 50 years ago and it's still OK.

You beat me to that. It looks a treat IMO. Shame to just dump it.

Trump has had a grudge against Iran ever since the Tehran hostage crisis and other events which he considered a humiliation of USA.

I didn't mean to suggest your road shouldn't have a 20 limit. Clearly it should, and it should be enforced better.

Meaningless to somebody who can't (or won't) understand simple logic

I'm sure what you say is true, but if it were just a money earner, you'd expect they'd be out there booking drivers. IMO 20 mph zones are decided by people who can't drive and have a grudge against those who can.

Lower speed at impact causes less damage, obviously, but it doesn't follow from that that a given stretch of road will have a lower overall casualty rate with a lower limit. And the argument that lower speed is safer can be used all the way down to zero speed, but not many people suggest that.

As Deluks said, use them (without flexis) if at all possible. More trouble to fit, but unlike flexis will last indefinitely, and makes the taps more rigid, often useful with a stainless steel sink.

And then only tailpipe emissions

That's the most stupid argument I've heard for a long time. What would you expect?

Gatso cameras flash (from behind) but Truvelos have little or no flash.

Quite. I only switch something on when I need it on. I don't need a smart meter to tell me it's using energy.

I don't think it's a medical problem, as it's easy to put somebody out painlessly for an op, so similar to kill them. The problem, in eg USA, is that they don't want it to be too barbaric, but don't want it to be entirely stress-free either, because where's the deterrence or retribution in that...

Make sure the inhibitor is up to strength, then when you've released all the air (or more likely hydrogen), you won't need to do it again

I never thought I'd agree with you :giggle: but I fit most of that

With another different name

OK, it's not my cooker, I posted out of curiosity. I didn't see how to use a manometer, before spotting the obvious, isolate at the meter and connect the manometer downstream.

I don't know, but some on here say it's OK, others that it's not. In any case a leak will soon be detected by smell

OK, but consensus seems to be that even if no pressure drop is found, it's still not acceptable to rely on the bayonet fitting.

Do you mean the previous boiler didn't have that problem? Maybe increasing the pump speed would help, if it's an option on that boiler