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No. Greater London. 1930s. The showeer is 10.8kw. The electricity mains is super old, the part the electricity company is is charge of is likely to be original hardware. They've recently inspected it and are happy. Consumer unit is under 5 years old.

Hi Taylor, I probably didn't explain the issue very well. The lights only flicker/dim when the shower is turned on. Then stay normal while the shower is running. Then dim again when the shower is turned off. 4 bulbs around the house have blown since using the shower over the last few weeks...

More of a dimming now that you mention it. Almost like its sucking up the power from the lights. Not sure that's a technical term Happens to all the lights on the downstairs circuit. Will check the upstairs later.

Hmmmm..... Probably more of a dimming. Almost like it's losing power.. It happens to all of the lights on the downstairs circuit

Thanks Randomgrinch. I'll take more photos over the weekend. I think a dead leg, originally installed to feed the frontroom.

Ahhhh you might be right. As there was a gas fireplacer, which has been capped off. How would I know if I can cap.off the dead legs?

Hello, I have two 22mm pipes running to the corner of my room and under my fireplace. Both get hot when heating is turned on and I have a two pipe system, so I think they are feed and return. Mu question is, why do they have drain down valves on them? Why do they run under my fireplace...

No. But it's all over text. They are a local well known company in Hornchurch. Thought I had picked a good one

No, no certificate? Is he suppose to?

Hi I just had a new bathroom fitted with it's own circuit by an electrician. When the shower is turned on, it causes my downstairs lights to flicker. Notably, the kitchen light which they also moved, but is a seperate circuit. Any suggestions?

Thanks Koolpc.. I could of guessed that So I take it squashing the pipe isn't "code" and should be redone?

Does anyone know why this pipe has been cut and squashed? I'm pretty sure it's a gas pipe, as it leads to the meter. 1930s semi detached with a 70/80s remodel. Thanks

Two questions in one here. I'm/my plumber are looking to add a bathroom where my preextension kitchen would have of been. My plumber thinks it's best to get ground works done and add a new terminal to my external drain. Probably the best option, but costly. My soil stack is very close to...

It does have a slight arch in it. By 50mm or so. Plus it was originally an outside wall above a window. I plan to out a lintle in just to be safe. Something like this 65 x 100mm concrete lintle will be fine, right...

Sorry, I think I confused you. I've not removed the wooden lintle and would only do if I were replacing it.. I'm was more wondering if wood is strong enough. Its been like this for 90years, so I suspect so. Thanks for the other line. I was more worried about that outer layer of bricks...

Hello I'm looking to remove the window and brick work directly under a window - picture attached It had a wooden lintle roughly 3 x 8inch. I'm confused as the brick work for the cavety wall doesn't seem to be supported. Any suggestions?

Apologies, I didn't see your reply. The final plan is to remove the window and brick below the window and leave this as an opening to the room behind it. Do you think I need to reinforce the wall to the left and right of the window once the brick in the middle has been removed?

Yes, correct. So just the area underneath the window will be removed.

I've recently brought a house that has a 1970s extension on the back. The original Back wall now was a large 220 x 180cm window in, seperating it from the new extension. I want to knock the wall out below the window, only. I'm trying to get a structural engineer to tell me if this is doable...

Hi All, I posted someone earlier in the week and realised I've got a cowboy doing my boiler replacement. Since the minute it was installed, it hasn't worked. When turning on heating only, the boiler locks out with code f. 23 however, if you turn on heating and hot water, the system runs...