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Had someone come in to level and whack a 100mm type 1 sub base for a patio. I’m some areas I saw them trying to wack 100mm in one go. Will this be weak as not whacked in layers? How can I check the integrity of it? I can kick it up using light force. Surely it should be solid I’d done properly ...

Hi, I am doing a patio and fake grass. I researched to install a 100mm sub base. I needed around 15tonne and was too much to barrow in by myself so I had someone come in. Straight away telling me I don’t need 100mm for patio subjected to foot traffic. Mainly levelling by eye and telling me...

Right ok, so where do I got from there then? I thinned it to the consitency I always have done.

I don’t go side to side all the way up and down.... I use the paint from the initial spread and go either side of it then go back over it all.

I couldn’t tell you the exact percentage but it would have been more than 10%. Usually would try do nearer half and half

The walls are boarded but plastered. I havnt been able to get any Dulux Matt ultra yet. Out of stock. The pic is from the last coat of Leyland trade. The lines are perfectly straight because I’m rolling perfectly straight. Starting 5 inches away from last roll and then rolling back in...

This is how my wall turnt out, and it’s the same on ceiling. Wasnt applying too much pressure and felt I was applying even.

Well it’s very frustrating, I could just leave it but it’s the room I will spend most time in. It does seem that I ain’t getting much out of that roller sleeve. I’m going to get some ultra Matt then and give it a final coat with it. Then give up

So I watered it down a fair bit and never made much difference. After speaking to a painter friend, he mentioned it’s probably the heat and sunlight as it’s an extension with a large bifold opening with no doors yet. So..... I painted again tonight after it had cooled. It was a lot easier to lay...

I’m one of them that if I know it’s there.... it has to go I’m certain I won’t get lap marks if it doesn’t dry as quick, so will add some water. Thanks

And not so much I had roller marks as in excess paint.... but when the natural light was shining through I could see lap marks Will I always get lap marks in daylight to a certain degree?

Yeah highly annoying. I already sanded and brushed off. I’m going to thin it tomorrow and coat. I had to stop today as I pressed so hard trying to flatten the mark that I popped a drywall screw and had to fill This is why I stick to fixing boilers

As if it’s holding too much on the sides of the roller. Will a short pile prevent this happening?

I purchased the normal Leyland trade paint which I’ve used before. Went on fine on the walls but still on the ceiling before I’ve rolled and layed it off, where I’ve initially rolled is drying and then can’t be flattened. I’ve never had a problems before. Using a medium pile microfibres sleeve...

Yeah some mist coating is like having a paint bath Had no idea it was fast drying as it doesn’t say anything on website description. Will get a different paint and see how that turns out.

I see from that sheet, it’s quick drying! Probably ain’t helping me Didn’t realise

I thinned the mist coat initially.

Honestly, I can’t see it being that, it’s hardly making much coverage. What’s the best sleeve and paint for ceilings?

Evening, I am a tradesman, if a painter but do bits and pieces . I’ve been using Leyland Trade Super Laytex and a medium nap Wooster microfibre sleeve. I’ve roller marks literally everywhere on the ceiling, I’m loading up as much as I can, maybe this is a poor sleeve, getting it on quick but...

I’m aware of the line pumping, it’s hard for any sizeable vehicle to stop for a period of time. Plus the pump will cost more than the 4 cubic metres I need. I was trying to find a way around it as I have time on my hands