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Thanks for your help. I've dug out an existing ground floor plan I had saved. You can see the workshop on the far right. It's not very big (2.6m by 2.6m approx). It doesn't wrap around and doesn't extend beyond the back of the original house structure. So should be OK for PD? Thanks.

It’s not original. The house is 1938. The workshop is a much more modern brick. It has a concrete raised floor. The rest of the original downstairs has suspended wooden floor with 2-3 feet of space underneath.

Thanks. I've done a rough drawing (attached). I've drawn the front right of the existing house (the house is much wider and longer than shown) and then the proposed extension in red. So the new exterior door would open into a 0.8 wide passageway as drawn. So wondering if there's any limitations...

Hi all, I'm planning to do a side extension on my detached property. I want to still leave front to back access however space is tight. I'd leave a side passage width of 0.8m. I understand there's no minimum expectations on a side passage width. The extension itself would be 5.25m long and...

Sorry a bit of a delayed response and took me a while to dig them out. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi. I did it like the picture.

Hi all, I have a bit of a dead space down the side of my house and in need of more outside storage. I currently have a smaller workshop building as per the picture below. I want to add to that storage by building a new structure down the side of house, to utilise all that space right up to the...

Thanks for your reply, appreciate the response. I’ll probably see what the BC officer advises first before paying out on someone else as funds are tight. If anyone else has any thoughts from similar jobs or situations then that would be appreciated.

Hi all, I’ve had my boiler moved from my garage to the utility room which is next to the garage. This is because I’m doing a garage conversion. The gas comes through the garage wall (from the meter) into the garage. It now goes vertically straight up to the ceiling (around 1.5m). It then runs...

Hi all, I'm doing a garage conversion. The external walls are solid brick (9" thick). My building control officer has pointed me towards a calculator to make sure I get the right PIR insulation thickness to hit a 0.3 U value rating. This came out as 50mm on the celotex calculator. This includes...

Hi all, I'm doing a garage conversion to domestic use. I'm putting in a suspended timber floor, so joists, and then a cavity underneath. They'll be thick PIR insulation between the joists, with the cavity under that. I'm having to rework pipework as currently the existing pipework is in the way...

Hi all, I'm doing a garage conversion to domestic use. I'm putting in a suspended timber floor, so joists, and then a cavity underneath. They'll be thick PIR insulation between the joists, with the cavity under that. I'm having to rework pipework as currently the existing pipework is in the way...

Sorry, it's chipboard.

Hi all. I’m installing 22mm t&g boards onto joists (suspended floor). Should I nail or screw them, and should I glue together? Thanks Jon

Got you, so 1 brick deep?

Hi, I'm doing a garage conversion and I want to copy the existing rosemary tiled creased window sill theme that exists on the rest of the property. The property is 1938 and has solid 9 inch walls. i.e. 2 skins of brick but no cavity. How far under are these tiles going? They look like they go...

Hi all, I have a small porch which has brick walls (solid 9 inch wall, 2 skins). It is watertight with a PVC door/window frontage. I'd like to hide the brick work. Whilst not damp in there, it does get cold. Should I just dot and dab normal plasterboard or mechanically fix some, or is there a...

Yeah sorry, I meant wall starter kit. I will be using wall ties to tie it to the outer leaf. So that's enough...no wall starter kit? Thanks

Hi all, I'm converting my garage to domestic use. I'm bricking up the bottom of the opening up to window height. The walls are solid (no cavity). The bricking up will follow suit (no cavity) with all the insulation going on the inside wall. So the opening will be bricked up with facing bricks...

Thanks both. Yeah there’s no cavity, so they’d be too long and would need trimming. Seems like overkill, there’s no cavity here for air to go into. Leaning towards just leaving a hole unless building control frown on that.