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I'll try turning it down tomorrow and see if that has any effect. The maximum temp it can be set to is 85 by the way. Fair point about the thermostat, I will set it to the temperature I want, to be honest now I think about it there's no point at all turning it to 30 as it's just a standard non...

Sometimes forcing the hot water to come on (by turning its thermostat to max temporarily) can actually sometimes make the boiler run for a bit longer but generally has little effect, so could easily be coincidence to be honest. It's pretty random and there's 3 main cycle patterns I've noticed...

The water comes out clear when I bleed the radiators and the system was apparently powerflushed when the boiler was installed a couple of years back. It is a 22mm pipe up to the header tank, and it does have water in it. Upstairs radiators all get hot (other than the ones with their TRVs turned...

Just to try to explain whats in the pic, the two pipes on the right going upwards with the valve are to flow and return for the megaflo. The boiler flow comes from the left insulated pipe into the pump and goes out to the right. The magnetic filter is installed on the megaflo return. You can...

Hi all, hoping someone can help me! I've got an Atag IR24 system (heat only) boiler installed a couple of years ago and I'm having a problem with it short cycling. I'll try to describe my heating system as best as possible: it comprises of 13 radiators of various sizes most of which have trvs...

The dishes are usually dry after the cycle unless they’re plastic, and the new dishwasher actually has more insulation than the old one, and is the exact same size

Hi I’ve just replaced my old Bosch dishwasher with a new Bosch (SMV46GX00G). It washes very well and dries the dishes reasonably well, however the inside walls of the machine are always covered in condensation after the cycle, as the photos show. I’ve been using the auto 45-65°C cycle, and...

Yes concrete underneath then the insulation boards on top with a damp proof membrane I think and then the chipboard just floating on it

I’ve cut out the rotten chipboard, but it was just laid on insulation board, no joists or anything! Surely that can’t be right?

Definitely chipboard, looks like planks of timber due to the solid wood floor that was laid on it. The new solid wood flooring will run in the opposite direction to the existing one (along the length or the room instead of the width) , so screws at the edges won’t work unfortunately. So would...

These are pictures of the chipboard which is rotten and the existing floor.

Hi I’m replacing my floor in my downstairs toilet as the existing solid wood flooring was bowed and ruined due to a water leak some time ago. I’ve pulled up the existing solid wood boards and the chip board subfloor underneath is covered in mould, although it is dry now. My plan is to cut out...

I have had a look inside the light to see if the hole can be enlarged, but there is lots of metal moulding on the inside, and the gu10 lampholder is in the way of making a bigger hole, or even a new hole. Also unfortunately the glands can’t be screwed together directly.

In this case there was a fence post 60cm away, so I decided to use that, although I like your idea of using post stumps. That would have been hard for me though because the spike light is in the middle of some garden bushes, and I didn’t fancy crawling around in there! I could swap the metal...

I was thinking of using this at the light end of the conduit.

That’s the back of the light.

It’s an outside spike light. The hole in the light is right at the edge, so the size can’t be increased, and I don’t think I could make another hole, as the base has lots of mouldings that the gu10 lampholder is attached to.

It’s a spike light, and I haven’t found any that look like I could fit a 20mm gland to them. I used the conduit because the 230v flex would run across the ground for about 60cm, so I thought it would be best to protect it a bit with conduit.

Hi I’ve got a flexible plastic conduit coming out of a junction box, where it is terminated with flexible conduit glands. On the other end, a 0.75mm flex cable comes out of it, and goes into a light. The 0.75mm flex is factory fitted to the light, and unfortunately it is not possible to...

Thanks for the explanation, my house has a voltage of 240v, so the amount of voltage drop should be acceptable.