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The refill time on mine takes a while too, though not that long, but I have high water pressure. If it has suddenly lost all that water there may be a leak, or the expansion vessel and pressure relief valve may require servicing/replacement. Also check the pressure relief pipe that goes outside...

The boiler comes with a key that fits these 2 valves. Turn both 90° anticlockwise to fill boiler, then turn both back. The slot indicates the valve position, front to back closed, left to right open. They are often stiff if they haven't been operated in a long time. Some radiator bleed keys will...

^ Beat me to it!

A skilled electrician might be able to hide the cables, I assume you have a combi boiler and no hot water cylinder?

The heatlink (what the nest controller talks to) has 2 terminals T1 and T2, these connect to the 2 terminals on the wall mounting plate of the nest controller to provide power without the usb.

Seen plenty of imperial cable with green slime. Sadly it's quite common around here.

:rolleyes:

Return them, they are not fit for purpose.

Wow what an absolute mess. Not to mention using the bare earth wire as a switched live. Terrible. I would recommend contacting someone competent to work on heating wiring to install it properly, and safely.

The capacitor can age with use, where its capacitance value drops. A very common problem in all sorts of things that use film capacitors in mains positions.

Please call in a professional, you NEED the cylinder thermostat.

Why not hard wire the nest properly, back to it's own power supply that is built into the heatlink, as it was designed?

It's like a lighthouse light, to stop cars driving into the house.

Some interesting stuff there! Shame it's not new in box. Some of that will be 75+ years old

Probably just the rope seal on the door, if it has re-wireable fuses (unlikely at 200A) there will also be an asbestos flash guard inside the holder. I assume this unit is not in use any more but if the asbestos is removed the unit must no be put back into electrical service.

The tingly parts are behind shields that would require a tool to remove, the unit can't be opened when switched on. Quite safe to renew the fuses.

There must be hundreds of these still in service, very rugged and well made. I wouldn't re-install one though. However having seen the quality of a number of the modern replacements I know what I'd rather rely on.

Then throw away all the thermally damaged parts and replace them. If the plug pins were hot replace the plug too. If the wall socket was hot also replace that. 3KW is a heavy load, very few modern extension leads are suitable for safely carrying 3KW. For some reason most are now only rated for...

Are all the off peak circuits on at the fusebox? I assume you left them on overnight to charge?!

Well the installation is certainly s***.