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I think you are worrying too much, if it stays at around 1 bar, then leave it alone, if you had a leak, it would soon drop to zero.

Close both rad valves, open bleedscrew on rad to check valves have fully closed. Undo one end (hold valve while undoing nut so it doesn't turn), cap rad tail with 1/2" plug, repeat other end. You'll need an old towel under joints to catch drips. No need to drain boiler or system.

Might be worth asking someone else to look at it, sometimes it's as simple as the condi trap leaking, they're prone to cracking. The other favourite is the flow switch assy. If the hex is leaking, then it's scrap.

I think most pros on here will tell you to change the boiler, they're not v popular with engineers, you've been lucky to get 13yrs out of it. There's an estate in my village which was built around 13yrs ago, all fitted with those boilers, I've changed 6 of them over the last year or two.

This seems a lot of fuss for something very simple. Close both valves, open vent to check they are both shut. As said, hold valve with stilsons and undo nut, gently pull pipe away and substitute valve for 1/2BSP stop end. Move to other side and repeat. The water will only exit rad as fast as air...

I can't think of how that can be done unless you have a fairly recent Logic, in which case there's a "vent system" function in the menu.

No

Sorry, typo on my part, I meant don't use Grohe parts.

I would replace the components, but use Grohe ones. Similar components are readily available for a fraction of that price.

Normally only primary (heating) side gets clogged. Brick acid is my go to solution.

Drill grub screw out, then enlarge hole & rethread?

Assuming it's fully inserted, just leave it, you will use the the square white tap to refill boiler. Replacing the whole assembly is only a 10 min job.

He's an idiot, do not let him near your boiler again. EV should have a charge of around 1 Bar

I think you will need the single channel Hive, as opposed to what you have. Why didn't installer change it, or advise you?

Both boilers are accessed from the front for maintenance, so you only need a few mm clearance at the side.

Looks the correct head to me, you will need to line up the flats on the spindle (brass bit) with the flats in the actuator. Sometimes moving the actuator manually (plastic lever on the end) helps.

Because the mains pressure is higher than system pressure, a plate heat exchanger leaking internally would indeed cause the pressure to increase.

You can check the thermostat by watching the zone valve as you alter the stat, it should close when stat turned down (assuming cylinder is warm), and open when turned up. There's every chance it's been wired wrongly too.

Turn the cylinder stat right up and see what happens

You should be able to get a good fix into the blocks with conventional screw and plug, however, the Manu's of those brackets are stupid, in that they space the holes far too closely in the brackets, which means you run the risk of drilling first hole fine, but then the 2nd hole shaetters the...