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Floor layer is the correct trade, sounds like you'll want to strip back as suggested, Liquid DPM to subfloor and screed on that. Personally I would avoid LVP, Glue Down LVT is much the superior product and you'll need to prep to the same specification whichever product you choose.

Save yourself a load of heartbreak and replace with Laminate again. Click LVP is notorious for failing even when subfloors are fully screeded and level, the joints are so thin they are susceptible to breaking easily.

Glue it down with plenty of Grip Fill in the channel so you get good adhesion/coverage but allow expansion, weight it down for 48 Hours and it should hold to shape.

Have a look at Stairrods UK for their premier profiles, they do a low height version.

This is appalling Google AI advice. Speak to Woodpecker, go by Woodpeckers advice and guidelines for their product. Look at their install instructions. But we have already been through all this hav'nt we?

Just in every way it’s a bad idea!

Until it expands due to humidity/moisture.

Take it up and Rennovation Coat self levelling screed the ply for a flatter, less undulating subfloor then refit.

For laying carpet, a DPM is a bit OTT. However if you do DPM sandwich, just glue the gripper and door bars with Flexy-Fix and it will be hard enough to stretch to in an hour or less.

Engineered wood flooring is not a Structural floor, you would need floorboards/Composition boarding over the joists before the Engineered Wood could be installed as a 'finishing' floor surface.

If you try and kick that back into the bar, use plenty of spray contact adhesive first to glue the underlay to the floor and to help the carpet grip the top of the underlay. Or use a wider profile, perhaps a piece of scrap oak, or you can buy a profile from Treadplates UK to butt against the...

If you have the skills to face the exposed area with thin boarding/mdf etc you could then fill and paint which may be easier than trying to sand and fill the area as it is at present?

There’s is no point in screwing, just use the right glue and save yourself a whole load of time.

The UFH product will specify what the manufacturer recommends but in short the vinyl will need a stable firm surface, nothing spongy etc.

You cant install Solid wood with an Underlay. You should only install an underlay if you are floating a Engineered Wood, Laminate or LVP floor. The correct way to install this will be to 6mm SP101 Ply the floorboards and glue the solid wood to the Ply with wood floor adhesive. You'll only be...

The vinyl will need to be 10mm above the UFH mat. How you enclose the mat will depends on the specs of the UFH If you are retaining the traditional heating in the space, vinyl is quite warm to the touch etc, I'm not so sure you'll see much benefit in such a small space, it will also cause...

I'd lift the old carpet etc, thoroughly bleach the floor and let it air, and if the tiles are good/flat, lay the sheet vinyl direct for now, use spray adhesive to perimeter fix. This should be fine until you choose to replace the whole lot in the future. If you can get a particular Sheet vinyl...

How wonky are the asbetsos tiles?

You'll need 6mm Flooring Grade SP101 Ply , fix with ring shanks and then feather all the joints and heads. Then glue the LVT on-top. If you are laying the LVT Herringbone, we would Mapei Renovation 3mm Coat Screed over the ply instead of feather.

It will be laid on a spongy carpet and not be attached to anything, of course it will move and amplify movement of the laminate.