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Primer and then 2 coat screed over the ceramics to level. Personally I would'nt fit click LVT, you'll get a better finish and less troublesome floor with a glue down LVT instead.

For the bifolds, have a look at Stairrods UK Lip Profiles, they are perfect for a premium finish in such areas or they also do flat profiles if you prefer rather than a L shape profile if it suits.

Pull everything back, dig that cement out and you will be able to see exactly what you are dealing with, hard to know until you can see the full extent of what's been done.

Avoid click LVT. Go with glue down, far less likely to fail.

Best anti slip product I’ve ever used is Foxi anti-slip underlay.

You absolutely CAN fit a Solid wood or Engineered floor to a concrete subfloor, it’s is the ONLY way to install a Solid plank floor as per Woodpeckers instructions and is the recommended way of installing a Engineered Wood Floor as a premium installation. Have you read Woodpeckers installation...

The lino not a DPM! it would allow the floor to sweat. Your thinking over what is happening, but not taking into account that the floor MUST be fixed to the subfloor to give its stability, it is not. This coupled with completely unknown subfloor condition and ‘normal humidity and temperature...

The wood will absolutely continue to expand if not fittted correctly and secured as it should have been. This is precisely why you can’t float a solid wood floor. The floor needed taking back to a bare subfloor, it then needed to be moisture tested, treated if required to stop moisture rising...

As per Woodpeckers installation instructions, the floor should NEVER have been floated on anything. It’s simply not stable enough to install this way. The Lino should have been taken up, the floor checked for moisture and levelled (and treated if required) appropriately and the flooring...

It’s expanded because of seasonal changes in humidity/temperatures and because we still have no idea if it’s laid on a dry subfloor, it will also have moved excessively because the floor has not been installed as per manufacturers instructions and should NEVER have been floated on an underlay...

What’s stopping the floor expanding again now you’ve cut it back? Why did it expand over an inch the first time?

Carpet Tiles?

I sincerely hope those skirtings weren’t fitted like that with carpet in the room, they should be fitted tight to the floor and the carpet fitted against them, not underneath. Those skirts were fitted over the top of the laminate to hide the expansion gap, they could have been scribed to the...

The floor will undulate, the skirts are probably installed level. Only option would be to remove skirts and scribe the bases to the floor level - a nightmare.

What flooring do you plan to fit over these?

Feather is used to smooth the joints/sunken screws, Screed like Mapei Rennivatiin can be used to level the floor. Assuming it’s a bathroom with seperate raised shower tray or a bath so it’s just spilt moisture hitting the floor, silicone sealant will be fine to the edges. If it’s a wet...

As long as it is open grain, use the floor oil of your choice, but you’ll want to test an area first.

That's fine if it's as per manufacturers instructions, in 30 years in flooring retail, I'm yet to come across a solid tongue and groove product that the manufacturer says can be floated.

Commercial grade clip system floor a very different system to what most people will have access to to install in a domestic property, to be more specific, Tongue and Groove Solid oak shouldn’t be floated if that helps clarify things.

If it’s a lacquered floor you can’t do anything at all without sanding it. Don’t varnish it. If it’s an open grained finish - oiled or waxed - you can use floor oil on it, if your not sure, try an inconspicuous area and see if the oil soaks into the grain or sits on the surface.