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That's very local damage: I wonder if something has hit that corner? Not serious either way,

I found the hard way that thet make the drum deeper for bigger load capacities so less space at back for peipework.

Make sure you don't get too close to their DPC if you're raising levels

I wouldn't worrry about the vertcals and you say you're going to fill the one to the right

That looks awfully rough work: I'm not sure how much can be blamed on rain.

Seriously weird this: Phillips are the devil's work though as I can never find the right screwdriver when I encounter one! If you look at the 2 diagrams the driver heads are actually drawn different! The first pic to my eye shows the shorter one and the countersunkhead. You should see a...

There are now.

Seems to me that your basic choice is either take everything down behind the kitchen and start over, maybe even extending the kitchen sideways which would maximise the potential but at highest cost or do some tarting up which could take many forms and many levels of cost. If you involve...

Isn't the simplest option to choose a new cooker the same width?

How long is the wall: crack looks pretty constant width which suggests shrinkage.

Is chatgtp going to come out with benders and fit the thing? I'm only an amateur plumber but it makes me laugh when AI spouts such garbage. At least the negative head would work but why pay for complication you don't need?

I think you'll be OK with PD then.

It will now depend on the shape of the workshop: when add ons are added to add ons the planners take a step back and apply pd rules to the whole addition to the original structure. If the workshop wraps round the back then it will become side extension and limited to half the width of the...

Garden wall not likely to have much of a foundation. These cracks are merely cosmetic: I'd let well alone.

To ensure full water tightness you need a continous membrane: in your sketch water will track down the back of the dpc and under it, Ideally you need a fin drain to divert as much water as possible: you only have fill on 2 sides so this should be easy

So you want to span 7,5m with lights hung off this new structure you're adding. You'll need a beam unless you can resist the lateral pull that a catenary wire would generate. I would suggest a lightweight truss arrangement wou.d suffice or better yet a simple bowstring structure. Take a pair...

Perfectly sensible provided it's all properly waterproofed.

So my post 2 "do not do it" was heeded!! FWIW Telebeams are primarily beams which is why they are so deep.

FWIW I'd say it was all about regulations, specifically for buildover, so right place

This has been posted and answered before has it not?