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I'd be tempted to get a doormat with the word 'stopcock' printed on it.

...and co-ordinate the fitting change to after you know where the mat is going, but before the boards go back down (unless the access would be easy for the plumber to change the fitting after the floor is finished).

If it was my house, given that you already have a stopcock outside, and given that you'll have easy access via the recessed doormat, I'd go with option 2.

You might want to check the context...

If it was mine in these circumstances, I think I'd go for jetwashing, and limewash (mix lime putty with water and put 3 or so coats on). It'll make it look a lot better, and won't add to the damage.

Yes - it takes me less than 10 seconds to plug it in in the evening, and the same to unplug in the morning. Oh and I don't have to drive anywhere to do it.

Anybody who waits 3 hours at Exeter services these days to charge would be sadly deluded. IKEA, Gissons, Salmons Leap, are all nearby, available and underused, and all the other chargers on the M5 before Exeter are usually free, certainly never more than a 20 minute wait.

Just a (probably unnecessary) reality check from an amateur - are you sure it's ingress and not condensation?

As an amateur, I think the stormdry will make things worse, unless there are particular reasons to believe that this is penetrating damp. My understanding is that lime based walls move water from the inside (generally higher humidity) to the outside (generally lower humidity). Stormdry will...

Demise

When?

Have you tried high speed with low pressure? Thinking out loud here - drilling green wood, you're wanting to cut rather than tear, so I wouldn't think low speed and high torque would be an advantage. Also thinking that the higher the torque you're applying, the more likely you are to injure...

Are you sure there's no crud, paint or packing between the hinge and the frame that wasn't there before?

Trying to sort out loose screws with the hinge in the way is unlikely to give a good result. As lower says above: "If the top hinge is properly attached then just open the door to 90 degrees and wedge something under the door to support the weight. You could then remove the screws that you're...

Hmmm, A couple of questions or three come to mind... Is the door actually moving in relation to the hinges, or is it simply fixed in a different place to before you started? Is the door hitting the frame all the way up and down when you try to close it, or just at the top? Were the hinges...

hands

What sort of advice would you like?

It's a really easy problem to fix. You need any old piece of softwood - dowel, floorboards, joist cut off, garden fence as suggested above, etc etc - anything. With a stanley knife, whittle the end into roughly the shape and size of the screw body, (but slightly larger). Hammer it into the...

Can you access to cover the insulation on the inside with plasterboard? - that would make a difference

So you just want to remove the right hand side of the shelving unit, and the shelves. It seems unlikely that the right hand side of the cupboard is supporting the ceiling joists, but you could have a look in the loft to check that the joists on the right side of the chimney are supported by the...